Chunkys Pulsar GTi

No such thing these days. I know this is off topic Chunk so apologies but i had this conversation with a customer today. Average repair and/or maintenance bills for modern economical +shove cars are getting into silly money...

Fuel pump goes - £2k
Duel Mass goes meaning new clutch etc £1k
10 plate Audi/VW/Skoda EGR's are fucking up for fun... £600+
DPF filter replacement - £1k

All these things are practically standard on a 05 onwards car, which you can pick up for £2000 upwards. Any one of those bills combined with the fact it will need lots of other work writes that car off straight away.

How long will the park assist feature on modern Fords work for before it's going to cost you thousands to repair it. I'd say about 5 years. Then i'm sure some wanker will decide it has to work in order to pass an MOT.

Seriously, I'd rather spend the extra £20 a week on Petrol than be hit with a £500 bill every other week. Don't even get me started on modern cambelts with their keyway-less cranks either. Average cambelt costs now are full days labour plus parts so £300 +
 
I was told that actuator lines are supposed to be as close to the turbo as possible, which is probably why most car's have them attached straight back to the turbo outlet or at least somewhere before the throttle body. Technically the shorter the actuator line the quicker it should spool.

When I first built mine I Tee'd off the plenum exactly as Chunky did. I then Tee'd off that line for a boost gauge. It wasn't as bad as Chunky has explained for Lag but after I fitted a quick tap and didn't have a boost gauge in the mix it did spool up alot quicker.
Do u Guys not loop the actuator line back into itself...or can that be done with these setups
 
Fuel pump goes - £2k
Duel Mass goes meaning new clutch etc £1k
10 plate Audi/VW/Skoda EGR's are fucking up for fun... £600+
DPF filter replacement - £1k

I can unfortunately vouch for all of the faults listed above.
Shit under warranty, life destroying out of warranty. Ad blue yourself to death.

Good job on the turbo build Mike, keep it up!
 
Fuel pump goes - £2k
Duel Mass goes meaning new clutch etc £1k
10 plate Audi/VW/Skoda EGR's are fucking up for fun... £600+
DPF filter replacement - £1k

hear what you saying however who ever takes a car older than 4yrs old to main dealer is asking for it. the above costs are top money imho. those repairs from an engine specialist using aftermarket parts would be about half.

most newer cars either petrol or derv have dual mass flywheels. with clutch is about £350-£500 from GSF
 
hear what you saying however who ever takes a car older than 4yrs old to main dealer is asking for it. the above costs are top money imho. those repairs from an engine specialist using aftermarket parts would be about half.

most newer cars either petrol or derv have dual mass flywheels. with clutch is about £350-£500 from GSF
I work in the cheapest garage in my Northern monkey town. Those prices are absolutely cock on for an average price. A Fuel pump on modern diesel is over a grand and usually runs off the timing chain (ford/mazda/vauxhall/saab) so you practically strip the entire engine side to do it. For a DMF and clutch on a Galaxy/Sharan is £380+ VAT parts alone. SACHS mind, but you can't put cheap shit into a car that you've spent all day fixing, it's just not worth it. Then 25/30% on top of the parts to allow for your trade discount. £500 + fitting and you're at £800 easy and that's on an 06 plate.

And as for main stealers Dave, VW beatle headlight bulb replacement, £40. Think about how much they want for a timing belt. Unless you get a car that is brand spanking new, i don't think they're worth the hassle.
 
tbf fuel pump failures i dont believe to be as common as most think. normally find that in the past they've been misfueled in the past, even so reman ones can be had. plus they come with the same warranty as new ones, so why pay over the odds. same with alternators, turbos, injectors, engine and gearboxes.

10 plate VAG vehicles you'll find if the customer/driver speaks to the manufactures, they'd make a goodwill contribution depending on service history - edit, repairs over £250+vat

DPF's can be cleaned out depending on the percentage of blockage. failures can be done to driver style too
 
Euro IV onwards sucks balls! Euro III and get a solid flywheel conversion if you can handle the vibrations etc

I dont get the whole DPF thing neither, to regen one you have to run the engine at silly temps meaning mega over fuelling to clean the DPF out, when we have sprinters in at work for regens we all have to bugger off outside because all of the fumes come into the stores filling my lungs up.

Fuck being green, I love my planet warmer

Love the car chunky
 
just cut the dpf out along with a remap - donez
Visual inspection. Have to smash it out. Remaps are hit and miss. Also it's become impossible to do it on very modern cars for the time being. The manufacturers have cottened on to it all and locked out the ecu's properly.
 
One Hell of an Update,

So i have been very slack and frankly quite secret with this as i feel i have failed a little with it. and through pride i didn't want to say much but I now think it is the time as i am kind of starting again with it. there are some issues that still pursue me and I'm growing tired of avoiding and ignoring them so the engine is coming out and i re-using the old block i had as DE among some other bits. so without further ado here's the story so far.......

As i was using this as a daily car and had quite short journeys it did not do the car very good and with the mix of the wrong FPR and a little too much boost. the engine had some DET'ing issues and consequently blew the headgasket so..........I got a Cosworth Jobby with ARP head studs and also fitted a Greddy Emanage Blue unit with MAF and injector loom. i will shortly be getting the ignition harness for this also.

the DE i have spare will be fully stripped etc drilled for the oil return as i have a horrible feeling the block is cracked as since replacing the headgasket etc i have still been loosing water and the car has been smoking white smoke a lot. it is also lumpy when first starting from sitting. making me think there is water seeping into the bore causing it to not ignite the fuel until it has burnt off the water. and also this would cause the fuel mixture to be off also. so i have decided to bite the bullet as i know there is nothing wrong with the other block and can rule it out. i will be getting the old block checked over if i cannot see anything obvious.



























Pretty much back together





And now this is how it sits for now. all will hopefully be done by the start of summer i will be replacing all the seals and gaskets etc and making sure that I seal the oil pump and sump fully as they both have annoying leaks.

So this is how it sits now.
 
No damaged pride or failing, when you choose to go as far as you have there is usually the understanding it will always be an ongoing project needing improvements and tweeking along the way. Just make sure you keep going :)
 
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