craiGTi's ph2 GTi

Well im just making a suggestion here, it may well not be the knock sensor but it could be.

If your ignition timiing is set too high or fuel pressure is too low it will knock under load, and the knock sensor will register this and the ECU will keep retarding your timing.

I dont know why your timing is so low.

TBH its not wise to just guess at parts, and chuck stuff on it and hope it fixes things.

Get your timing set properly, clean your MAF again and check the condition of the HT lead terminals.

You can disconnec the knock sensor too, see if it makes any difference.
 
Dale said:
Well im just making a suggestion here, it may well not be the knock sensor but it could be.

If your ignition timiing is set too high or fuel pressure is too low it will knock under load, and the knock sensor will register this and the ECU will keep retarding your timing.

I dont know why your timing is so low.

TBH its not wise to just guess at parts, and chuck stuff on it and hope it fixes things.

Get your timing set properly, clean your MAF again and check the condition of the HT lead terminals.

You can disconnec the knock sensor too, see if it makes any difference.
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right i'll try that, where is the knock sensor?! i know what it looks like but not where it is.

so the low fuel pressure could be doing it too then.

in terms of just guessin at parts and changin them - do you think the best thing is to go to nissan and see what their consult says?

last thing i wanna do is use it and it knock and bugger something seriously - i can't have a 4th engine!
 
Knock sensor is at the back of the block under the Inlet Manifold, theres a picture on the forum somewhere, maybe someone will put it up.

If you disconnect it and the problem goes away, then its most likely a faulty sensor.

By any chance, did this hesitation problem develop soon after you changed your spark plugs?

Your IGN timing deffinately needs to be sorted ASAP..
If you cant do it and get it to stay put, then take it to nissan and report your symptoms. I know people have had problems getting their timing to stay advanced, but normally AFAIK their timing is reverting back to stock 15*. Yours going to 8-9* seems abnormal.

You should try just one thing at a time, and eliminate things, that way you know whats what, and you will save yourself money.
 
right i'll try disconnecting it.

with the ignition timing, when i first checked it after the engine went in, first time i'd ever looked at, it was at like 2'! :eek:

nah, the hesitatin before was like a slower, more gentle fuel/air thing, that went with the clean maf. This is a really abrupt sudden thing and makes the car jerk, then pull again.

Like i say it only happened randomly, not often.

ooh, a thought, - when the engine was changed the old knock sensor looked fooked - like the black plastic casing had melted! Obviously a different one went on, but if it got that hot, could it have damaged a connector or something related?

I think best thing is to go to nissan.
 
One thing to bare in mind is that the knock sensor is no more than a piezoelectric microphone, if it gets damaged all it will do is tell the engine there is no knocking at all, rather than make it think there is knocking when there isn't. So if it is to do with timing, maybe it is simply the timing is still out?
 
yeh cheers phil

to be honest i might just take it nissan next week, see if any errors come up etc. i'm losing the will to even try myself, i almost couldn't give a shit :(

i can't be arsed driving it if every time i put my foot down i wonder if anything's gonna break or go wrong, bag of shit
 
Not true Phil, if the sensor is damaged it may give false voltage readings and make it think its knocking when its actually not.

This will cause fuel cut (the momentary hesitation/brick wall effect) and retard his timing. Theres only so much ECU can retard the timing, so being at 8-9* it may not be able to retard any further.

Just disconnect the sensor and try it Craig, dont loose faith. Its just one 10mm bolt
http://www.mysportscar.com/andy/FA/192.jpg

If it seems okay afterward, then advance your timing back to 15.

If all is well and your timing stays put, then you can replace the faulty sensor or repair damaged wiring (whichever it is).
 
cheers for all the help mate, i'll give it a try.

well, nothing will be done for 6 days cos i'm goin to new york with uni in early morning :D

so hopefully after a week away, i'll be re-invigorated to care about it and get it sorted, plus i'll have a tax rebate through so an fpr anda few other bits will be arriving to help things as well! :D
 
The knock sensor would not be at fault here..

The engine had zero problems in the previous car it was in, all electrics were checked with Consult before removal.... and the knock sensor looked to be in very good condition when the engine was fitted..

I honestly Dont think its Knock Sensor related..

1ST THING..

Leave the battery disconnected over night and let that reset the ECU..

Try this 1st..
I think the problems is ECU related.. a remap would sort this once and for all im sure.. as well as getting the most from your MODS..

Get the CAT-BACK exhaust on and get it remapped..
 
To be fair, having re-read his sypmtoms, he's saying he only gets the problem in low gears 1st/2nd when pulling away so it may well be ECU tune or TPS related.

Id only expect possible knock detection when under high load/higher gears, which how i originally interpreted his problem.

My new theory is TPS. Am i allowed to change?:D
 
Dale said:
To be fair, having re-read his sypmtoms, he's saying he only gets the problem in low gears 1st/2nd when pulling away so it may well be ECU tune or TPS related.

Id only expect possible knock detection when under high load/higher gears, which how i originally interpreted his problem.

My new theory is TPS. Am i allowed to change?:D
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well back from new yoik, which was fookin awesome! :D and it's time to get car sorted properly!

tps does make sense. Just been out now and it seems to be only in 1st and 2nd, it's really hard to describe, just then it seemed like it was a single cut n power, it was like 3 or 4 times, and felt like a really severe version of the kangarooing we all know and love!

Then it clears though, and pulls hard through the gears.

Only other thing i've noticed is it seems to do it on the same parts of roads?! :confused: ie. pulling out of my drive it does it,, and turning into a particular left hand junction nr mine, in 2nd, it does it.
It almost seems like bumps/wheel hop affect it?! lol

My rear mount's knackered too, could something be moving and messin something up? prob not.

As far as my tps is concerned, i adjusted it before the MOT, it was reading hgher than the how to on here says, so i brought it down a bit? maybe put it up a touch and see?
 
tommo said:
it may just be the ecu shitting its pants cos of the cams like mine did when it was on the rollers...
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eh??

what happened on the rollers?!

weird, it didn't do it at all before the MOT, i think my tps adjustment might have done it! :rolleyes:


btw, pm received cheers dude, i'll give ya a text later
 
craiGTi said:
eh??

what happened on the rollers?!

weird, it didn't do it at all before the MOT, i think my tps adjustment might have done it! :rolleyes:


btw, pm received cheers dude, i'll give ya a text later
Click to expand...

power and torque curves were a bit wobbly and as the operator said, he was surprised how well the ecu was coping. probably just the ecu strugling to keep afr stoich. TPS will help a lot as well. im convinced its the tps thats making mine jolty at low revs. therre is a road up stoke by my mates that i kangaroo down every time because its a slope and a junction so i use the same revs etc every time and it always jerks. coincidence.
 
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