craiGTi's ph2 GTi

just for the record sam pointed out it was rowdys old one, then deleted his post to look less almera-geek-ish. such a bearded wonder.

so is the hotshot a 2.5" same as your old ssac? difference THAT noticeable?
 
tommo said:
just for the record sam pointed out it was rowdys old one, then deleted his post to look less almera-geek-ish. such a bearded wonder.

so is the hotshot a 2.5" same as your old ssac? difference THAT noticeable?
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hahaha, i hadn't even seen sam had deleted that, what a gimp :P

no, me n eddy had a look at them and decided it might be the best combo to keep the ssac downpipe, so that's still 2.5" as the hotshot seemd pretty small. Hope i made the right move doin that.

Yeh honestly mate, not just psychological it seems a lot better, although the pulleys have onle just gone on and i'd hardly driven it with them, so it must be the 2 things together, is defo better though :D
 
Crikey, it`s on already! That`s dedication for you:lol:
Glad to hear about the performance bonus today:thumb:

After seeing the difference today, I`ve got to get a 2.5" downpipe for the HKS.
 
arrgghhhh!!!!!

just nipped out in car and on my way home my abs light came on, gave brakes a little test and sure enough it's not workin :rolleyes:

then when i got home had a look around underneath to see what i could see! lol, and spotted loadsa oilly lookin stuff, all over wishbone and sump, and above sump around the pulley area :mad: Looks like someone didn't do summin right or was a tit in not changin the oil seal like andy actually suggested. Too impatient for my own good, so gotta mess about with that now - at least that's all i presume it'll be.

As for abs, what's first thing to try?

EDIT - had a read on web and there's talk of not changing pulleys due to vibrations or harmonics and oil leaking or something?! :eek: mentioned to sr20 too, hmmm.

also, wezz, andy - do you guys have the spacer for the crank pulley?


cheers
 
After checking fuse, try levering out the sensor (tricky) and give it a clean up on the end. After that, fuck knows - the FSM has pages and pages of electrical tests with a multimeter that left me confused after the first sentence...
 
I remember reading about the whole pulleys and vibrations thing, but was countered with someone who said theyd had the pulleys fitted for like 20k and several years with no problems like people on here etc....

could always be good to check/change the crank oil seal when doing the pulley...
 
steadyrolling said:
After checking fuse, try levering out the sensor (tricky) and give it a clean up on the end. After that, fuck knows - the FSM has pages and pages of electrical tests with a multimeter that left me confused after the first sentence...
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cheers mate, but errr :O wheres the sensor?! lol


TheSam said:
I remember reading about the whole pulleys and vibrations thing, but was countered with someone who said theyd had the pulleys fitted for like 20k and several years with no problems like people on here etc....

could always be good to check/change the crank oil seal when doing the pulley...
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yeh that was the mix i read too, oil seal is on order anyways :rolleyes:
 
haha, sorry, there's a bolt that fastens a black plastic cable it into the back of each hub - unfortunately this snapped off when I tried to undo mine so the new one had to be soldered on... Might be a common problem, I dunno, so be careful...

So if you have to fit a new one to the front, make sure the cable fits into the little slot in the hub to stop it rubbing on the suspension when turning - this is what ruined mine, wearing the insulation away...

Other end of the connection is near the wiper motor on bulkhead - may be worth checking the earth too.
 
got crank oil seal fitted earlier so solved that problem, and a new exhaust mani gasket fitted, was blowing like mad before. Just been out on a nice cool evening, and god does it feel different with the pulleys and hotshot, change into 3rd now and it just keeps pulling like it did in 2nd, then in 4th the same! :D

solved the abs warning light problem, the sensor cable had come loose from the bracket and snapped clean in 2! :eek: anyone got one i can have?! lol although it looks like it'll be a bitch to undo - rusted to fook.

next jobs - get rid of the nasty hot water going through the TB, seems easy enough.

and a question, that insulation stuff on the underside of the bonnet, should i have got rid by now?! only struck me today - durrrr, keeping plenty of heat in surely...
 
mine has gone from the bonnet, i think it holds water too...rust!

beware of idle when taking the hot water pipes off the TB beautiful
 
SirMixalot said:
When are you getting this on a Dyno chap?
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dunno mate, wanna do it now, but also got other bits n bobs i wanna do before hand! cat gaskets for example are knackered, don't like the k and n filter, think that can be improved on. also like we were sayin about that intake gettin hot, wanna sort that maybe. Just bein fussy wantin it spot on! :lol:

hopefully sort these bits soon, and add 1 or 2 bits, then do it - see what's what. After that i'll be saving for a remap methinks :D
 
sunnysrule said:
beware of idle when taking the hot water pipes off the TB beautiful
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Sorry to hijeck thread, is bypassing the throttle body coolant likely to cause issues with idle? apart from the obvious freezing open problem you might have over there.
I have phenolic spacers to go in soon, and was going to bypass the throttle too but it's already a bit grumpy on cold start.
 
Spectrix said:
Sorry to hijeck thread, is bypassing the throttle body coolant likely to cause issues with idle? apart from the obvious freezing open problem you might have over there.
I have phenolic spacers to go in soon, and was going to bypass the throttle too but it's already a bit grumpy on cold start.
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yeh wezz found he had problems with it, and after a little reading on the web i read about the same issues and possibly increased fuel consumption and maybe even emissions. I think those things were explained by a lot of TB's having a heat sensor in them and therefore without the coolant going through, never reach proper operating temps. Like it being on choke all the time.

However, i read that on a manufacturers website for the spacers you're talking about, so they might have a motive to say so! but it makes sense nonetheless.

I like the idea of the spacers too tbh, they may have gone on my list of bits to buy too!
 
Might sound a bit complex, but could you not wire a valve into the fast idle wiring? So when it's on fast idle it heats the TB, then when it's off fast idle (most of the time after the engine has warmed up) the coolant is bypassed? It would be quite simple and could fix the problem.
 
there was mention of summin like this in a thread wezz started on it, but they mentioned summin like i needing to be a more complex 3way valve, ortherwise coolant wouldn't be getting around the engine at all. I think! But yeh sounds like it would do it, i just think for the price of a set of the thermoblok spacers, you're gonna gain more by isolating everything, inlet mani from head etc etc, than the little bit rerouting that might do and quite a lot of effort.
 
You guys have slightly different intakes on your SRs to Australian ones, but this might be worth mentioning. There are a couple of coolant pipes at the back of the engine that are pretty much impossible to get to without removing the intake manifold (or the whole engine).

These pipes can burst or split once they get old and brittle. The coolant then empties out under the car and the engine subsequently overheats. Of course the temp sensor has no coolant to measure anymore so there's no warning that its happened unless you see a puddle or the engine breaks.

Since it's an extensive job to replace the pipes, it's common practice to do them if you go to the trouble of removing the intake manifold for any reason.. say to install phenolic spacers :D
 
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