Darrens N16

well today I fitted the rear anti roll bar It was virtually a bolt on job but the exhaust (U clamps) were to small so I got some bigger (Sentra uses 2.5") and the N16 Hatch uses 3" I also had to mod the brackets to get it to fit.

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Can you actually feel the difference with that strut bar fitted ? I have my doubts about it for street use, but would probably be great on track.
 
I can't feel much difference to be honest as Almera sleeper said maybe a track day thing. I need a front N16 Sport Anti roll bar (Front) now.

the back of my car is quite heavy so I am still getting under steer on hard corners the car just slides

oh yeah this is a 19mm you can buy thicker I think 22mm but I was worried that it will not fit so I brought a 19mm so if I needed mod it it slightly I could do it quite easily its a 100% direct fit with no mods except the rear brackets apart from that its cool

Darren
 
What tyres have you got? I would have thought with all the audio weight in the back that the front should be getting decent grip still and with the QG15 it should be light again. It takes a lot for mine to under steer you see. Could of course be that that extra weight in the rear causes more rear bodyroll thus more understeer, so yeah the 22mm would have suited you.
 
I have yoko parada spec 2's all round. I think the front is too light because of the audio. I got atleast 60kg's extra in the boot.I thought the Ultra racing anti-roll bar was the same/similar as the whiteline one so I was worried of getting one too thick as it was close to rubbing against something according to one of the members
 
bloody hell u need a SR20 in there just to move the shit you carry in the boot!

and no wonder you upgraded your brakes!!

well im glad I got the brake set up as I would of written off into my mates Jap import 350z the other night. he use to have stock brakes non brmbo, just single pots but he spent 900 quid to 1k on a big brake conversion (330mm 6 pot) I tailgated him around a round-a-bout and then he shot off on the straight next think you know he slams on the brakes as the car in front of him brakes to let some one turn right I slam on the brakes late not thinking and I think I was virtually touching his bumper at one point. I had to pull the hand brake up to slow down. (madness)

anyway tell me about it. I might go mental and strip it out like liam (including the sound deadening) I don't want to strip it out is because I spent about 700-900 quid on sound deandening :(
 
Would of been better off getting a diesel, a larger fmic & remap would of probably been adiquate power for you and suited carrying a larger load better... bought the wrong car hate to tell you :lol:
 
Would of been better off getting a diesel, a larger fmic & remap would of probably been adiquate power for you and suited carrying a larger load better... bought the wrong car hate to tell you :lol:

I had the option to buy a phase 1 2.2 diesel but it was a saloon I much prefer a hatchback
 
I have stripped down the SR20DE loom out of the P10 and wire in all the relays and the DLC (Consult port) and got readings and error codes)

there are 2 or 3 wires that I need to find out and then I should be able to start the engine on the bench. I tried to crank it over on the engine stand with a engine crane holding it up and it looks stable enough. I will try and find the wires and wire in the fuel pump and blower motors before I continue trying to start it. there will be pictures/videos of the engine started.

here is the engine mount that I got my friend to fabricate . it does not look the best it needs to be tiried up and allighted with the chassi before I can get it sand blasted and powder coated

http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=6917782&l=e475b3511a&id=502352802

http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=6917790&l=c52799010e&id=502352802

I will post up the wires that I need help with and if any one can shed some light I will be greatful :-)

Thanks
Darren
 
hi darren,like the spoiler-lip thing attached to the bottom of your front spoiler,where did you get it? cheers!
 
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