Darrens N16

edk said:
lol at least it's done eh. But I knew of Daz dreaming about this since I joined up at the AOC, like 4 years ago!
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insurance was the biggest issue but I spent money on audio and bodywork. I would not pay some one to do something if I can do it myself that is why I did the swap myself.

also I can say the easiest thing was putting the engine in. The most time consuming thing was the wiring. most headache was the front engine mount bracket (I have posted pictures on the N16-SR thread of the front one) as for the drive one its fairly straight forward.
 
Congrats Darren - it's been a big project with a lot of doubters. But it's in & running, so let's hope the little niggles are sorted soon & you can go out & enjoy it ! :)
 
Daz you got the spec and some pictures of your tasty cat back system?
Asking as it the best sounding pipe work ive ever heard on a SR20DE
dboi
 
ok a update.

rear bigger brake disc upgrade (278mm) using P11-144 carrier's brake discs and pads (See how to thread)

ok my plans is to turbo it. not anytime soon but just collect parts slowly.

I plan to buy another P10 eGT engine low port and rominofski engine (Almera GTi Engine with Pulsar Pistons and Rods)

ARP head bolts and metal cosworth head gasket and bolt everything up and I should be up and running

parts I have so far
Pulsar Manifold
T2-T3 Adapter (just ordered)
Nistune ECU (GTiR with Nistune fitted board)
Skyline R33 GTST Turbo (I done the research and its better then the T28 Disco potato's)
Stainless steel T25/28 Elbow (I need to modify this)
N15 GTi Maf
N15 GTi inlet pipe
370cc Injectors from a S14

Parts I plan to need
New Water pump
Blitz BOV
Fuel Pressure Regulator
Lighter Flywheel
Stronger Clutch
FMIC + Pipework
Boost Controller
Maybe some Bigger injectors or Subaru STi Injectors
ARP headbolts
cosworth Head Gasket

Research on R33 GTST Turbo
http://zilvia.net/f/tech-talk/153301-rb26tt-trbo-sr.html
Burmonster said:
Okay, I have posted this info before but it is always helpfull. Mods, if you read this, sticky might be good so that people have a stock turbo guide for nissan engines.

And yes the 300z has dual t-25

GARRETT T25
They are from the small series of turbochargers specifically engineered for original-equipment small-capacity engines, have their roots in the ET Pulsar, and culminate in a 'twin' application on the 300ZX twin-turbo VG30DETT. In single form, they are not recommended for performance applications.

Car of Origin: Nissan S13 Silvia/180SX
Engine: CA18DET
Flange: Four-bolt; it fits most Nissan four-cylinder turbo engines
Max. Power Rating: Approximately 130kW
Max. Boost: 1.0bar (14.5psi)
Cover Size: Exhaust 0.48 AR, compressor 0.49 AR
Comments: A small and reasonably ineffiecient turbocharger that should only really be used as a straight fit for an existing CA18DET engine to replace a failed unit. It's not recommended as a bolt-on for a normally aspirated engine of more than 1600cc.
Cost: Normally quite expensive, $450+ due to the replacement demand in the normal service industry for these turbocharger
Rating: One out of five.

Car of Origin: Nissan PS13 Silvia/180SX
Engine: SR20DET
Flange: Same as above
Max. Power Rating: Approximately 160kW
Max. Boost: 1.2bar (17.4psi)
Cover Size: Exhaust 0.64 AR, compressor 0.60 AR
Comments: Improved flowing version of the CA18DET turbo makes it a great straight-fit bolt-on to the CA series, but becomes borderline on even a lightly modified SR20 engine. That the S14 series of cars moved to using a bigger T28-style unit is testimony to this.
Cost: Again, being a straight fit for all of the 2-litre turbo imports makes them an in-demand unit and pushes their cost through the roof. $550+ makes them expensive, but they are a great fit-up for a lightly tuned S13 CA18DET
Rating: Two out of five.


GARRETT T28
The next size up from the T25, the T28 series of turbochargers are more serious items. They are used in twin form on the Nissan Skyline GT-R and singularly on the Pulsar GTi-R, S14 and S15 series Silva/200SX. They make a decent upgrade for the S13 series of cars when more than 150kW are reliably expected to be produced.


Car of Origin: Nissan S14 200SX pre-1996
Engine: SR20DET
Flange: Four-bolt, same as the T25 series.
Max. Power Rating: Approximately 170kW
Max. Boost: 1.2bar (17.4psi)
Cover Size: Exhaust 0.64 AR, compressor 0.60 AR
Comments: The ultimate OE bolt-up to the S13 series of cars, the best part is that it bolts straight on. A good little all-round mid-range turbocharger that has proven itself to be extremely reliable in service.
Cost: Expensive due to their fitment to an Australian-delivered car. Their price starts at $650 for a second-hand unit.
Rating: Three out of five

JDM Vehicles only, not relevean to the UK S14a
Car of Origin: Nissan S14 200SX post-1996, S15
Engine: SR20DET
Flange: Four-bolt, the same as the T25 series
Max. Power Rating: Approximately 170kW or slightly more
Max. Boost: 1.2bar (17.4psi)
Cover Size: Exhaust 0.64 AR, compressor 0.60 AR
Comments: While the housing are the same as the earlier S14 turbocharger, the latter item has sophisticated Garrett ball-bearing internals, which guarantee a faster ramp-up to boost than the previous model. This is the pick of the T28 series.
Cost: They're hard to find second hand due to the relative scarcity of the S14 black rocker cover engines. Normally, you are best off to buy these new from a turbo supplier.
Rating: Four out of five

Car of Origin: Nissan Skyline R32, R33 GT-R
Engine: RB26DETT
Flange: Four-bolt, the same as the T25 series
Max. Power Rating: Approximately 150kW
Max. Boost: 1.3bar (18.8psi)
Cover Size: Exhaust 0.48 AR, compressor 0.60 AR
Comments: They are really only good for use on stock GT-R engines due to their relatively small exhaust housing. For some reason, they seem to be able to handle more boost before turbine failure, but there are still plenty that have let go.
Cost: Anything with a GT-R part number is expensive!
Rating: Two out of five


GARRETT RB20/25 SERIES
Even though many tuners refer to the RB20 and VG30 (single) turbochargers as being a T3, this is not the case. Being a Nissan-branded item and having only Nissan identification markings on them (no AR markings etc.) can make identification difficult. All of the ball-bearing turbos have a telltale 'fatter' centre core section, as well as a bolt through the centre housing, which looks as though it has an effect on the thrust bearing pre-load. Overall, these turbos are very good performers.


Car of Origin: Nissan Skyline R31 GTS
Engine: RB20DET NICS (ribbed rocker cover)
Flange: Four bolt T3 style
Max. Power Rating: 140kW
Max. Boost: 1.2bar (17.4psi)
Cover Size: AR not identified
Comments: A poor-performing turbocharger that was only used on a handful of engines by Nisan before being replaced with the newer technology ball-bearing units. Top-end power is far from good, and the actual response (boost-response time) is also quite poor. It's one to steer away from.
Cost: Dirt-cheap, as they are not in any demand. They have been seen to be as low as $100.
Rating: One out of five

Car of Origin: Nissan Skyline R32 GTS-t
Engine: RB20DET ECCS (silver rocker cover)
Flange: Four bolt T3 style
Max. Power Rating: 160kW
Max. Boost: 1.2bar (17.4psi)
Cover Size: AR not identified
Comments: A big step in the right direction from both Nissan and Garrett. A truely nice turbocharger, complete with modern aerodynamics and ball bearing construction. It's a perfect choice to get the best from an internally stock, standard injector/management set-up. On a CA18 with a custom manifold, they are really good things.
Cost: Reasonable, with some examples floating around the importers for as little as $400. You have to be quick thoughm as they tend to sell fairly quickly.
Rating: Four out of five.

Car of Origin: Nissan Skyline R33 GT25-T
Engine: RB25DET
Flange: Four bolt T3 style
Max. Power Rating: Approximately 185kW
Max. Boost: 1.2bar (17.4psi)
Cover Size: AR not identified
Comments: The big daddy of the range makes the RB25 turbocharger good for almost any mild six-cylinder application. Sparkling boost response in the low-rpm range and a reasonably hard-hitting top end make this the most common upgrade found on the RB20DET. It's highly recommended.
Cost: Being very difficult to get hold of makes them highly variable in price. Sometimes about $700, sometimes more.
Rating: Five out of five.

Car of Origin: Nissan Gloria, 300ZX
Engine: VG30DET
Flange: Four-bolt T3 style
Max. Power Rating: 190kW
Max. Boost: 1.2bar (17.4psi)
Cover Size: AR not identified
Comments: Apparently, these are slightly larger in exhaust housing size than the RB25, but have a fractionally smaller and different trim compressor. Information on these is sketchy, but due to their almost unknown application they are easier to find than the RB25 roller. A good choice, particularly if you put the RB25 compressor and cover straight on. In excess of 200kW have been produced with this combination.
Cost: Fractionally cheaper than the RB25 turbo and not as hard to get. They have been advertised at $650.
Rating: Four out of five
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One thing you should know about the Gts-t turbo is that it's common knowledge for .8 bar to be mega reliable, but push them over 1 bar & they fail quite easily. I had one of these so did some research too.
 
Daz, you do know there is a difference between a normal t28 and a disco potato don't you?

The gt28rs was developed on this engine and if you can afford it I personally would get one over a skyline turbo.

Sent from my HTC Desire using Tapatalk
 
The turbo is off a late spec skyline and is a v4 turbo. I have emailed turbo techinics asking them if thy can upgrade it for me. There is a skyline GTST turbo on eBay now for sale at the moment that will boost 26-28psi and it's been modified. I am only after 250whp any more then it will have to be buying internals.

I emailed turbo technics for a quote to upgrade the GTST turbo with a steel exhaust and intake wheel. I only need to boost it up to 1 bar at most.
 
well just a small update. some more parts (thanks to Dale and sorry for messing about for so long)
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also :-) extended wires and modified facia :-)
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Remember I have a SE spec with an additional radio. so I just ripped it out. Also I don't have sat nav so I can just disconnect it. I think if you was to do it you can relocate the radio to under the seat by extending the wires. :-). Thats if you have a aftermarket mp3 player else where.
 
AH right I thought you still needed at least the CD module. Otherwise what manages the climate control?! I guess that must all be done in the controls then... I thought that control panel was literally just that as it was so thin.
 
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