G's Vzr N1

[ragt20]

I used Black Hammerite behind the lights and on the Headlamp support bar and under the front wings. It's worked on my gate for 6 years so should be ok on the car. Then I used under seal on the cross member and inside the arches.

interesting, was gonna use Hammerite, but thought I'd double check incase there was something better..

 

[5Zigen_Eddie]

Hammerite will most likely outlast the underseal.. in an ideal world would strip back any rust to bare metal then paint then underseal ontop. Most just underseal though as its easier

 

[Sam]

I wouldnt use hammerite personally, if the surface isnt prepped properly then moisture gets underneath and it rots anyway.

I would use a Shutz aerosol, stays permanently soft so absorbs any chips impacts etc

http://www.frost.co.uk/automotive-rust-products/dinitrol/dinitrol-rust-proof-kit.html

 

[Liam]

Dinitrol FTW. Fill the sills, cross member and chassis rails with cavity wax too.

 

[ragt20]

some more pictures from yesterday, ..

old rear mount..

gearbox was supported with bricks etc, so its at the level it would be with crossmember still on

flexi touching arb

top bolt not lining up with decat

 

[supraslayer]

Would it make any difference if the flex pipe mounted the other way round ?

 

[ragt20]

Would it make any difference if the flex pipe mounted the other way round ?

yup (1) it wouldn't line up on cat side, and (2) the Lamda sensor hole would be facing down, which no good, as it would stick out ready to be hit by anything stupid lying on the road...

 

[Sam]

You anywhere near Kent?

 

[ragt20]

its not too far from me, bout an hours drive, why you say?

 

[Liam]

Its not that bad. The flexi is a 3" dont forget so its quite large.

My advice, drill out the hole on the flange and get it bolted together, then drive it to an exhaust shop and get the flexi moved slightly.

From the PM I thought it was going to be miles out!!

 

[ragt20]

the holes on the flange I've drilled out already to match my cat or decat, will see if I can get a smaller nut and bolt through there, to hold it enough to get it to an exhaust shop

 

[Sam]

Go and see Alan

http://solid-fabrications.co.uk/

 

[ragt20]

Go and see Alan

http://solid-fabrications.co.uk/

cool cheers will give him a call, once I get the car back together.

 

[5Zigen_Eddie]

If you have uprated engine mounts do you need exhaust flexi really? remember sam saying you dont

 

[chunky]

Car looks great bud and good work getting rid of rust and the preventative work

 

[Simcard]

If you have uprated engine mounts do you need exhaust flexi really? remember sam saying you dont

You defo need a flexi on anything with power to stop weak points cracking on the manifold.

 

[ragt20]

engine mounts polybushed, and not a fire in sight

bit of wd40, screwdriver, and bouncing on them to get em in

ps, before I struggle to get em back on the car, they don't need any trimming by any chance?

 

[edk]

No fire because you don't need it for those mounts. Rear is a different story as the bush is melded with the outer casing which is actually part of the beam.

 

[5Zigen_Eddie]

No triming but the rear mount no longer being offset centre hole makes refitment a little harder to get the bolt through, i remember needing grease though

 

[ragt20]

No triming but the rear mount no longer being offset centre hole makes refitment a little harder to get the bolt through, i remember needing grease though

interesting, am sure I'll find a way to get it in, with threading bolt through mount first, then using jack to lift up cross member to bolt it...

will see how I get on, when I get round to refitting