Miriam and Stevo (B1 and B2 gone)

The rivets that hold it to the steering column, when we did my old GTi we notched them so we could turn them with a screwdriver. Its not much more effort to just change the rack.
Smart arse! :-P
 
Corbs said:
The rivets that hold it to the steering column, when we did my old GTi we notched them so we could turn them with a screwdriver. Its not much more effort to just change the rack.
Smart arse! :-P
Click to expand...

the question was more aimed at why did you need to remove the ignition barrel at all? i didnt on mine and liams...
 
Whaaaaa!? I thought the chip in the key, the NATS immu box and the ECU had to be matched? Meh. It works now so I'll just change the door locks for the GTi ones.

1st startup attempt:
[video=youtube;mG6EfcpWObc]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mG6EfcpWObc[/video]

We since changed the throttle cable and clutch cable for the GTi one. It rocks quite a lot at the moment, the cradle needs adjusting.
 
Still a bit dirty, cleaned a few bits and bobs up. Swapping the nasty standard manifold for a 4-2-1 helped a hell of a lot! It's also had new oil filter, new oil and new fuel filter. The GTi is hopefully going to be scrapped today/tomorrow.
 
It would have idled first time if Corbinlah hadnt bodged his throttle cable :roll:

fitted the GTi cable after this and it fired up first time and purred away :)
 
Corbs said:
Still a bit dirty, cleaned a few bits and bobs up. Swapping the nasty standard manifold for a 4-2-1 helped a hell of a lot! It's also had new oil filter, new oil and new fuel filter. The GTi is hopefully going to be scrapped today/tomorrow.
Click to expand...

Donnt forget my bits and anything else.. which i could do with and i don't already have?
 
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