N15 GTi Track Car

Thanks Dale. The rev cut is set to 7300. Yours made peak at 6900 didn`t it?......
I cant be arsed to mess with cam gears..........
 
I know i should really, but who`s to know if Dale`s set-up is the best for power? His cams weren`t dyno set.
 
rowdy-GTi said:
I know i should really, but who`s to know if Dale`s set-up is the best for power? His cams weren`t dyno set.
Click to expand...

No they weren't before... But its top of his list to set up his cam timing with a Degree Wheel and Dial Gauge, I went through all this with Craig the other day lol, I'm not too up on exactly how you do it, but using a combination of the both gauges and the cam spec card you basically set them to their optimum settings.
As with headskims, different thickness HG's. Aftermarket cams in general, things could be way off tbh, there's no knowing!
All this must be pretty important really as my engine guy said that to swap cams... My engine would have to come out (obviously not for physical fitment... But for timing up) as his degree wheel is a big crazy thing that mounts on the flywheel.
Joe
 
Interesting, but I think i`ll see how i get on with mapping and the dreaded dyno result :pinch:, then maybe consider them.
 
I was wondering if maybe it'd be worth you doing it before mapping... I know Dale bought a Degree wheel that can be used on the Crank Pulley opposed to removing the whole engine, so one of those (£10ish?) and a set of cam gears (£100ish for Gspec ones?) and you could be set up and ready for mapping the first time (maybe better initial results, and no need for 2x mapping cost?)
Joe
 
Yes, mine peaked at 6900, and holds thereabouts till 7400....this is with +5/-5 setting.

If i widen the lobe separation it should move the peak further up the RPM, i'll loose a little peak torque but gain more peak HP, the torque curve will flatten out and hold on longer instead of being peaky and falling off. If i can hold just 155ftlbs to 7000rpm, (instead of 148ftlbs) i'll make 206bhp instead of 197bhp.

As Joe said though i'm gonna be degreeing my cams, by setting them to the reccomended JWT timing, and go from there.

But yeah, Ian i cant blame you if you want to run them straight up and see the results first.
Its going to make more power whichever way you look at it, having cam gears will just give you that flexibitily to be able to move the powerband around.
 
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some day ian, im going to copy the whole of this thread with my car ..... some day

Steve
 
I can agree with Dale and Shaggy - I would degree the cams with degree wheel and gauge before mapping. I tried it with my TOMEI PROCAMS - 280° and 12,5 mm lift - mapped without degreeing the cams and now degree them - it´s really different... I bought degree kit from Greg - Gspec... I think this is must with so huge cams, believe me... Great work Ian btw. Look forward to see good results
 
I took the car out for a drive yesterday.... due to some sunshine and dry roads for the first time in about 6 weeks!
It was a bit jerky when cold but soon settled down. Low down power feels pretty much how it always did, BUT above 5000rpm is insane! The idle is so lumpy it sounds like the rear silencer is about to explode! Beautiful! .....sorry no more embarrasing vids.
It had some fresh oil when i got her safely home.

Next in line:

2.5" catback at Unique Exhausts, if possible using my existing silencers ( i`m not going 3.0" before shaggy pipes in! ).
Remap with Steve at FCTuning.
 
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