nah nats is DEFINATELY integrated into the ECU in gti's.
i tried it when i first done my engine swap.
however I now know how to remove nats from a nats 2.0 ECU
N16 SR16VE
- Thread starter happyharrysco1
- Start date
nah nats is DEFINATELY integrated into the ECU in gti's.
i tried it when i first done my engine swap.
however I now know how to remove nats from a nats 2.0 ECU
I wish there was just a way to do the reprogramming via a consult
Darren198712
Just chillin'
not sure about that one. I have never heard of bypassing NATS on a NATS V2 ECU. As far as im aware of early P10's had a separate box (V1). I think NATS is by passable on the early P11 and N15 GTi's as its not built into the ECU (V1 again) V2 is built into the ECU which can not be removed (that I know of)nah nats is DEFINATELY integrated into the ECU in gti's.
i tried it when i first done my engine swap.
however I now know how to remove nats from a nats 2.0 ECU
edit
Well I was wrong it can be bypassed but its a hardware/software modification
http://www.fusion-motorsport.co.uk/our-blog-new/69-nissan-micra-anti-theft-system-nats
nistro got a little ahead of himself with the news, what he should have wrote is it's cranking over, and that's about all it's doing just now , but tomorrow is another day
- sent from my android device, no iSheep here -
, but tomorrow is another day- sent from my android device, no iSheep here -
Go go Phil ! Progress is progress dude :thumb:
thanks guys but I'm just at the end of my tether with this bloody thing, the worst thing is I have 3 different pin outs for the ve ecu and none of them match each other or the ecu, plus someone who owned the actual ve service manual and posted some of it on the net stopped half way through at the end of the engine section so no use there, also those few who have put a 16ve into an n16 before me have paid a garage to do it so there useless for info. so i've spent the last 2 days trying to fugire this shit out and it isnt happening, and as I sold my scope a few years back I can't even scope the pins on the ecu to try and fathom what they are . if I make no progress today I'm going to buy a gti ecu and loom and run it on that until my financial situation improves, as I need to get this through an mot and on the road again
- sent from my android device, no iSheep here -
. if I make no progress today I'm going to buy a gti ecu and loom and run it on that until my financial situation improves, as I need to get this through an mot and on the road again- sent from my android device, no iSheep here -
Good luck and don't give up like you told me during my painsaking sr20ve project swap.
Have you read my book?
p.s
sorry not in english
http://www.neovvl.ru/SR16VE_SR16VE_N1_SR20VE_Service_Manual/?1
Have you read my book?
p.s
sorry not in english
http://www.neovvl.ru/SR16VE_SR16VE_N1_SR20VE_Service_Manual/?1
read the book, heh i wrote the epilog lol, and thanks, as you more than anyone else here knows what i'm going through.
thanks also for the link, but i already have that much of the manual, like i said above they stopped at page 80, half of the actual manual, and as the first 80 pages is just the engine info its of no use to me for my current problems
thanks rich, i've gotten it singled down to the fact that the injectors aren't getting power so i've re-stripped the loom and i'll start tracing the wiring to find out if it's a connection problem, or if it's the ecu that's fooked, but i wont get back to it till monday as tomorrow is alc day
thanks rich, i've gotten it singled down to the fact that the injectors aren't getting power so i've re-stripped the loom and i'll start tracing the wiring to find out if it's a connection problem, or if it's the ecu that's fooked, but i wont get back to it till monday as tomorrow is alc day
Sunday is no rest day,
I'm hoping to get mine finished bar paint drying and mopping etc. Hope you never want to see an ecu again after this conversion?Sent from my iPad® using Tapatalk
Darren198712
Just chillin'
There should be constant power to the injector. The injectors ground through the ECU to cause the injectors to fire/open. Have you got spark yet from the spark plugs?thanks rich, i've gotten it singled down to the fact that the injectors aren't getting power so i've re-stripped the loom and i'll start tracing the wiring to find out if it's a connection problem, or if it's the ecu that's fooked, but i wont get back to it till monday as tomorrow is alc day
yeah Darren that's the problem I'm having, as according to two of the pinout diagrams I have the injectors get power from the same switched live that turns on the ecu, this splits out to the coil on the dizzy, the two vvl solenoids and the injectors, except on my loom it seems to be that it only goes to the coil and the solenoids. yeah I've got spark, it's cranking, I've got all the warning lights on the dash, the fuel pump is priming, just no power to the injectors, i've also to decide which fuel line goes where as there is an fpr at both ends of the fuel rail, both with entries to the same side, but one is supply and one is return, but like I posted above I've got the loom all stripped back and I'll find out what's wrong on Monday as today is alc at the Scottish car show
- sent from my android device, no iSheep here -
- sent from my android device, no iSheep here -
Seems like you have the same last issue I had.
Your engine may have been sat around for a long time and parts may have died.
Here is how we got ours running.
Have you checked the below?
Your engine may have been sat around for a long time and parts may have died.
Here is how we got ours running.
Have you checked the below?
The "FPR" on the left hand side of the rail (if you stand in front of it) is a fuel damper, the regulator is on the right hand side.
Just go through my thread again harry...
Darren198712
Just chillin'
ok for my loom
I had to put 3 relays in my car
ignition relay (turns ECU on as well as some if not all of the sensors)
ignition relay for the coil (same as above but with larger fuse as the coil needs about 30-40 amps)
ECCS relay
I also had to connect up a few wires separately as I rather connect it separately then wire up another 2 relays
Coolant blower ground for (rad fan) relay ECU to driver side front relay box (near fog light relay on a phase 2 but not sure on a phase 1) ground
fuel pump ground wire (from original N16 wiring loom)
the best thing to do is test for power at the injectors if there is no power then tap power from the vvl or dizzie. grab yourself a consult cable and then boot up ECUtalk on your laptop.
you should be able to test the injector signals working using this (disable fuel pump relay or fuse) turn on ignition and then blow through the MAF and on ECU talk the injector should show its pulsing. also you can test all your other sensors are working before you start it up and find out it runs like crap because this and that sensor is not connected or working. By using a consult cable you can make sure the rad fans are working once the ignition is on. (conzult) you can make sure the rad fan are working using this software.
I would always have a Nissan consult plugged in with ECUtalk with a project like this to start it as you can see what everything is doing and make sure everything is working. I did mine on a bench so it was easier
and as NOS Sunny GTi said it could be down to the injectors failing as well.
good luck