Ross Autech

so team baycon had a productive new years eve.

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at this point we got a little too big for our boots, and forgot we were working on loose stones... resulting in the autech falling over off the jack. chris happened to be sitting in it at the time lol. took us an hour to get it back up after that.

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onto axle stands this time :

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Rick singing "im a little teapot"

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freedom bitches!

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time to load up and move out!

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arrived at my grans garage and stuck the engine on the stand.

VERY productive day indeed
 
so a big boat load of parts have arrived this half of the week.

coupla filters :

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then a big box came :

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which had these :

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these :

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this selection of delicacies :

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and finally a feast of parts as well

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amounting to this :

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Now, I know that aftermarket non genuine bearings generally get a bad rep, so I am going to plastigauge them before i assemble the engine to check the clearances. if they are suitable, im gonna use them. otherwise I will go genuine nissan.

Few other goodies packed away in my cupboard for now, just some stock parts that will enhance the autech engine, more to be revealed as they are needed.

tear down starts tonight. more pics to follow on the anatomy of an autech engine
 
nice one

dunno where this thing about aftermarket bearings comes from - i used the std size acl's, plastigaged and were spot on. Did 6k hard miles on them and looked immaculate when steve removed them for his different crank.

what HG is that?
 
craiGTi said:
nice one

dunno where this thing about aftermarket bearings comes from - i used the std size acl's, plastigaged and were spot on. Did 6k hard miles on them and looked immaculate when steve removed them for his different crank.

what HG is that?
Click to expand...

just the one that came in the re-ring kit.

Description from looking at it, its a graphite gasket, with a nitrile coating on both faces, and copper seal rings at all the galleries, and fire rings around the cylinder.

i didnt really want the hassle/cost of skimming head and block for an MLS gasket tbh.
 
rowdy-GTi said:
King bearings are good, so no need to worry.

That sump seal looks easier to use than sealant.
Click to expand...

yeah i recalled that king have a good rep.

only problem with that gasket may be if the pan is bent at all during removal, it will never seal.

ive bought the fancy sump remover tool thingy though, so should remove it in tact... specially at £75 for a pattern replacement
 
ok so got the block and head back from the machine shop today. but first of all, what makes an autech engine so special?

this:

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ill explain later.

nice clean block back, main shells installed

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dropped in the 4cw crank, which is 7lbs lighter than the autech one.

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on with the main journals and the bearing brace, torqued down as per FSM

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in with the rods and pistons

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and the deck

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now. for possibly the first time in public view. the autech magic...

until now, the theory was the high compression element was thought to come from a head skim. WRONG

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note the two main differences.

1) a 1-1.5mm taller piston. this brings the piston top flush with the top of the block. also raising the compression ratio.

2) the taller piston skirt. this iirc stabilises the piston, and should theoretically reduce drag on the skirts.

also, compared to a RR DE piston, the highport oil ring is thicker.

so yah. just a little progress today
 
Chunky said:
But there not much older are they, i know the engine itself is i guess maybe just what was there on shelf, will it have much an affect on the speed it revs like a lightened fly??
Click to expand...

Any weight off the rotating mass has a desirable effect performance wise yesh
 
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