th3k3ymast3r's GTiR

-sarah m- said:
thats unreal!!!!
loving the idea of a conversaion thats got me thinking now...hmmm ;) :D

If there's one thing I've learnt on this journey, plan loads, research much and use the world as your canvas for options. Don't be surprised if it costs money and time - it goes without saying. Now you're armed go with the conversion!
 
Okay, custom bushes are being fitted tomorrow and they can't to seem to find compatible sway bars despite handing them the Whiteline product codes? Do they mean they can't find any that fit straight on without modification?

AVCR is also being wired in and I'm deciding on getting uprated gear-sets by PAR, PPG are more expensive and the main shaft is an extra £700 whereas it is included in the PAR set, besides PPG SR20 gearsets are said to be for RWD only. In the forums opinion (you guys and gals), if I'm uprating the gearset do you think I need to get the optional Crown and Pinion too?

Also, is it favourable to get a higher ratio or lower ratio Billet crown wheel and pinion? If so the choices are:
4.07 or 4.43

Finally, the gearset is compatible for both P10 and P11 gearboxes as direct replacement; however, I have access to both types, is there an advantage over either boxes?

Need a decision before I can go ahead with the Nismo Mechanical Diff.
Does have or know of any compatible engine torque dampers? like

Also, decided to go for K-Sport Big Brakes 356/32mm 8pot in Black, slightly cheaper than D2racing despite the £300 discount from a colleague at D2. Still if anyone's interested in getting the D2's PM me.

Lastly, do you guys know the length and height of the rear bumper from the GTi kit; thinking on whether a diffuser would look any good on a 'mera as well as its obvious function. Quite like the shape of the 350Z one or at least the shape of a trapezium. It would envelope the exhaust exit. Will get a PhotoShop done if I can find a decent rear picture along with the A'pexi Ex-Ti N1 Muffler I'd like to get too.
 
I think I'd go for the higher ratio as it should help with traction slightly, although it also depends on how your turbo is going to perform, if its going to make a large amount of boost for a good proportion of the rev range then the longer ratio is good, however if its going to make big boost for a smaller amount of time(aka dyno queen style) then a shorter ration would be better.

I dont think you need any torque dampers either, uprated mounts should be enough imo.
 
found a small vid of a par gearsett oin an N15

[ame]http://tw.youtube.com/watch?v=RKoVykuzVQ4&feature=PlayList&p=FCCF10177E7D6691&index=9[/ame]
 
found a small vid of a par gearsett oin an N15

Yeah seen the vid, not sure what to make of it and the double clutching I assume is only relevant to dog boxes as opposed to gearsets.

why the double clutch shifting up? and then the no clutch?

Could be wrong, but the gears 1,2,3 are smaller than gears 4 upwards than the stock gearset, so perhaps clutching reduces damage to these gears? All gears are engaged at the same time as explained on their site under 'Methods of Changing Gear'.

TBH not wholly understanding which comments on their site is referring to which gearset? :confused:
 
I think I'd go for the higher ratio as it should help with traction slightly, although it also depends on how your turbo is going to perform, if its going to make a large amount of boost for a good proportion of the rev range then the longer ratio is good, however if its going to make big boost for a smaller amount of time(aka dyno queen style) then a shorter ration would be better.

I dont think you need any torque dampers either, uprated mounts should be enough imo.

Thanks Naylor, I'd keep that in mind when chatting to the tuners. As they'll be the ones to let me know how the boost behaved when it was intially test on a dyno. Still waiting on whether I even need the crown and pinion in the first place ($1000AUD - optional extra)
 
why the double clutch shifting up? and then the no clutch?

the way dogbox's work mean they dont have sinchromeshes the things that allow the gears to reach the same speed before engaging..

the idea is your meant to use dog boxes clutchles.. but this is not only hard work for long distances it also wears the gearbox out faster.. but then again they are designed for full race aplications..

putting the car in neutral then releasing the clutch spins all the gears up to the same speeed then you can shift without using lots of effort or doinf as much damage as they will be matched......

duno if i explained very well...
 
the way dogbox's work mean they dont have sinchromeshes the things that allow the gears to reach the same speed before engaging..

the idea is your meant to use dog boxes clutchles.. but this is not only hard work for long distances it also wears the gearbox out faster.. but then again they are designed for full race aplications..

putting the car in neutral then releasing the clutch spins all the gears up to the same speeed then you can shift without using lots of effort or doinf as much damage as they will be matched......

duno if i explained very well...

Think you explained it quite well.
Here's an illustration to follow:

http://www.ppgearbox.com.au/flash/gearAni.swf
 
Okay people, one of the upgrades I thought I would not have issues with were the bushes being uprated and finding swaybars for the N15. Essentially, I've been told by PowerFlex that they would have to custom make them and charge me the tooling. Can anyone confirm that all I need is a "B14 Sentra" or "B15" model for compatibility? Has any of these components required modification/grinding?

Has anyone successfully installed "Whiteline" sway bars and if so, do you require modifications to fit it? I'm also assuming the model compatibility is for either the B14 Sentra or N15 Pulsar?

Most frustrating to having provided what I thought were the correct parts code to find that they won't be compatible for the car.
 
Get on GoFasterDepot or GSpec they have the bushes you should need,

Serban at GoFasterDepot is a dude, he'll sort you out.
 
This might have already been covered in this thread, but I'm too lazy to scroll through 11 pages of posts - what did you do to your rear lights? Did you modify the originals or are those a specific design you bought? They look awesome!
 
Not yet thanks :p A bit skint at the moment. Changing job soon, so maybe in a couple of months ;)

Probably get a grill first anyway, again in a couple of months.

Was just curious though, as I haven't seen that before. The whole car is stunning anyway.
 
Has anyone successfully installed "Whiteline" sway bars and if so, do you require modifications to fit it? I'm also assuming the model compatibility is for either the B14 Sentra or N15 Pulsar?

They do sell them N15 specific, but I don't know if the B14 ones are a direct fit.

They're really easy to fit, just awkward working behind/underneath the car when it's not jacked up.
 
Okay people, one of the upgrades I thought I would not have issues with were the bushes being uprated and finding swaybars for the N15. Essentially, I've been told by PowerFlex that they would have to custom make them and charge me the tooling. Can anyone confirm that all I need is a "B14 Sentra" or "B15" model for compatibility? Has any of these components required modification/grinding?

Has anyone successfully installed "Whiteline" sway bars and if so, do you require modifications to fit it? I'm also assuming the model compatibility is for either the B14 Sentra or N15 Pulsar?

Most frustrating to having provided what I thought were the correct parts code to find that they won't be compatible for the car.

B14 Sentra items will fit, try Energy Suspension in the US, I've got sway bar bushes and engine mounts and they fit no probs.
 
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