th3k3ymast3r's GTiR
- Thread starter th3k3ymast3r
- Start date
hmm another brick wall, wrong gearbox and finding out from NPOC that it wasn't uncommon that car ranges that supposed to have P11-144 gearboxes reuse older parts i.e. P11 gearbox. So this hunting around for the right one has got a wee bit difficult.
so been able to find a few sources but was asked whether I wanted the cable type or hydraulic? I know it would be an added cost for the hydraulic install but is there any advantages over the cable type?
This is the first time that I have seen your thread so I'll answer your questions for you...
The gearbox that you want is from the P11-144.
It is easy to spot as the reverse idler gear pin cover has a threaded hole in the centre.
It also has different switches in comparison to the older style SR20 gearbox.
I had this gearbox in my Micra, which is now in my Almera and to convert it is pretty simple.
There is a write up on the SR20 forum, but I'll make it easy.
Get the P11-144 gearbox and remove the roll pins from the clutch release arm, then remove the arm.
Do the same on your original GTi gearbox as well.
Now, either grind down the GTi arm at the end to fit the smaller bush found in the P11-144 gearbox or remove the bush altogether.
Right that's it converted to cable...1/2hr easily does it.
Mounting holes are there for the Almera mount so that is easy.
Rewire the reverse and neutral switches harnesses on your Almera using some plugs found on the P11-144 (you'll need to do what I did and cut the plugs off at a scrappy...LOL!) Easy enough, as the polarity doesn't matter.
Remove the original gearstick stabiliser mount on the P11-144 gearbox and throw it away.
Slacken off the gearstick base mount nuts and the linkage will fit the P11-144 gearbox. You then need to make some sort of bracket to be able to secure the stabiliser.
The driveshafts fit the same on both sides.
If you want to use a LSD like the NISMO unit that I have, then swap the bearings and have the holes in the crown wheel enlarged to accept the larger diameter bolts...it all fits toghether.
And thats it...no issues what so ever!
At my last dyno. run at before TOTB the Micra was making 444 WHP (approx. 500 crank BHP) and the gearbox had no issues at all...only downside is pretty much no traction until the top end of 3rd gear.
Big horsepower is useless unless you have slicks on a FWD car. Best I could run was 12.39 @ 126 mph...I ran 12.18 @ 126.8 with just 350 BHP.
Hope this helps!
Cheers
Dave
The gearbox that you want is from the P11-144.
It is easy to spot as the reverse idler gear pin cover has a threaded hole in the centre.
It also has different switches in comparison to the older style SR20 gearbox.
I had this gearbox in my Micra, which is now in my Almera and to convert it is pretty simple.
There is a write up on the SR20 forum, but I'll make it easy.
Get the P11-144 gearbox and remove the roll pins from the clutch release arm, then remove the arm.
Do the same on your original GTi gearbox as well.
Now, either grind down the GTi arm at the end to fit the smaller bush found in the P11-144 gearbox or remove the bush altogether.
Right that's it converted to cable...1/2hr easily does it.
Mounting holes are there for the Almera mount so that is easy.
Rewire the reverse and neutral switches harnesses on your Almera using some plugs found on the P11-144 (you'll need to do what I did and cut the plugs off at a scrappy...LOL!) Easy enough, as the polarity doesn't matter.
Remove the original gearstick stabiliser mount on the P11-144 gearbox and throw it away.
Slacken off the gearstick base mount nuts and the linkage will fit the P11-144 gearbox. You then need to make some sort of bracket to be able to secure the stabiliser.
The driveshafts fit the same on both sides.
If you want to use a LSD like the NISMO unit that I have, then swap the bearings and have the holes in the crown wheel enlarged to accept the larger diameter bolts...it all fits toghether.
And thats it...no issues what so ever!
At my last dyno. run at before TOTB the Micra was making 444 WHP (approx. 500 crank BHP) and the gearbox had no issues at all...only downside is pretty much no traction until the top end of 3rd gear.
Big horsepower is useless unless you have slicks on a FWD car. Best I could run was 12.39 @ 126 mph...I ran 12.18 @ 126.8 with just 350 BHP.
Hope this helps!
Cheers
Dave
DBull said:
Thanks Dave your an SR20 guru.
Your help is greatly appreciated and yes I agree large bhp only counts if they can get used on the ground.
What clutch did you go for in the end or would you recommend? Was hoping for a carbon one from ATS, unfortunately, they don't do one for the gearbox.
DBull said:
Thanks again Dave, sorry about the angry emoticon in the last post - not even sure how it got there, but was surfin' from my phone at Starbucks at the time hehe.
Hopefully be getting the gearbox mid-week so will let you know how it goes.
okay a quick update. The second third party supplier managed to send me the wrong gearbox despite my efforts of detailing the differences and phoning them directly to confirm before buying. Now after 3 weeks of their excuses I'm now in a official dispute with them. The outcome of which is they either provide the right gearbox or refund the purchase and retrieve the wrongly supplied gearbox. Until this is resolved I can't resume searching for another or continue the project!
I must point out that the party in question is "International Car Spares".
Will keep you all posted on developments.
I must point out that the party in question is "International Car Spares".
Will keep you all posted on developments.
okay after much grief the supplier will give me a full refund once the wrong gearbox is recovered by a reliable courier. I'll give one more supplier a call after the refund is done afterwhich I may have to concede a custom synchromesh gearbox by Quaife. Which leaves me nothing for the intervals to be updated.
Okay, if things couldn't get any worse, Quaife said they can't be bothered! Oh well since no-one else seems to either have the gearbox might as well bite the bullet and go for a brand new one from Nissan @ 2.5k, its gonna be a 2-6 week wait. Looking into internal upgrades at the mo in the meantime; HKS looks promising, just hunting around for cheaper prices. Might as well get everything else installed while I wait i.e Tachnometer/HIDs and Big Brake Kit if they ever get back with a quote.
Its not half annoying waiting on what you think is simple replies.
Its not half annoying waiting on what you think is simple replies.
dude PPG do a straight cut FWD sr20 GBox...
buy a second hand one have it rebuilt with some new internals fuck 2.5K from nissan for a standard one!!
http://www.ppgearbox.com.au/products.htm#2
buy a second hand one have it rebuilt with some new internals fuck 2.5K from nissan for a standard one!!
http://www.ppgearbox.com.au/products.htm#2
I've PM'd Gre so hopefully I get a response soon.CoV said:Maybe have a word with Gre on here, selling the 400bhp Pulsar N15, im sure in his thread he had uprated internals pout in his gearbox
I don't think its hard to come by the gearsets, its probably more to do with someone getting them fitted onto a P10/P11 casing that'll be the issue. Also, I was referring to the engine internals for HKS Conrods/Cams/Pistons/Valves or Tomei whichever I find cheaper - in case you mistook it for gearbox internals. It would be the next stage after this one.
Cheers CoV
The problem is getting the second-hand P11-144 Gearbox, gearsets are easy to find, its getting them to be compatible with the casing; that's the issue there. Unless, of course, the PPG Gearset will fit a P10/P11 casing? I admit I really like the gearsets PPG offer though, well machined gear design.Raceworx said:
£2.5k quote would be for a brand new P11-144 Gearbox that would have the 25mmØ output shaft. I'd like to think we could get a uprated gearset compatible for the P10/P11 gearbox. However, the only gearsets found are for the Pulsar GTiR AWD Gearbox or the P11-144?! When looking under "SR20DET" its not too obvious whether they are meant for the longitudinal 200SX PS13/S13/S14 mounted engines (or is transversal I can never remember). Are both these gearboxes the same for our cars - I'm thinking not?
The only company that did get back to me was Xtrac in Reading, but their quote was £20k!
If I can get an uprated gearset to fit the P10/P11 casing and that includes a larger output shaft then that would be one solution provided it doesn't exceed the cost of buying for new.
The Australians pointed me to a set of PAR Gearsets which did have the 25mmØ, so maybe there's hope after all.
you will have to e-mail ppg for gearbox specifics...
x-track are the ones used in the touring cars youll get a full gearbox and shifter ect ..
you know quaife do a FWD G34 6speed fully sequential gearbox with an S20 bellhousing dont you??? but that would cost alot more than a P11-144 box brand new and internals.. there approx £10K lol
x-track are the ones used in the touring cars youll get a full gearbox and shifter ect ..
you know quaife do a FWD G34 6speed fully sequential gearbox with an S20 bellhousing dont you??? but that would cost alot more than a P11-144 box brand new and internals.. there approx £10K lol
Interestingly Google popped up an old thread on the SR20Forum that put the cost in the region of $3500 for 1-4th Gears and $1300 for just the 3rd and 4th gear. The post was back in 2004 so I'll have to email them to find out the latest.
PAR Gearset were mentioned to be in around the same price mark.
PAR Gearset were mentioned to be in around the same price mark.
Raceworx said:
Yeah exactomundo on the cost from Quaife, the P11-144 quotes not looking too bad now. Its crazy when you look at the fact that the rest of car is disproportionately of less value than this single part. That aside I'll look into the gearset fitting the P10/P11 casing as that may still be cheaper than the Nissan buy new option.
im pritty sure they have a gearsett that fitts the non P11 gearbox you'd be best e-mailing them and starting a conversation.. they would probably be more willing that quaife to sort you out with a custom setup anyway..
dont know any info about PAR so again have an e-mail and see what they say..
dont know any info about PAR so again have an e-mail and see what they say..