'The Sleeper'

Red said:
vvl is only any good with a turbo.............on its own it's quite boring.
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you're either too used to silly mega horsepower gti-rs and the like, or you haven't driven a properly built 20ve, which seems likely seeing as there are hardly any in the UK yet :P :lol:

anyway, epic budget clutch dave. 11s please.....
 
Sam said:
it wont slip.... itl do this

http://youtu.be/w-2KiubBNMQ
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Ouch, EBAY flywheel FTL!

SplanK said:
was all that damage caused by the clutch/flywheel letting go?!?!
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Yeah, pretty much.

The easiest way to demonstrate how bad things get when they get unbalanced is to take a cordless drill and clamp a 10mm allen key into it.

Now pull the trigger and feel how bad it gets, like it would break your wrist off!

Now consider that the drill is only spining at what, maybe 1000 rpm and the allen key weighing maybe 200 grams at most.

Now take an engine, spinning at 8000 rpm in the case of that Honda, with a clutch / flywheel combined weight of say 10 kgs.

Only one thing is going to happen...CARNAGE!
 
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Nah, the 6 speed conversion is not an option for me.

Way too expensive and custom parts galore!

I'll just keep whacking QG18 gear stacks into my casing, as it only costs me £150 for a gearbox.

You're looking at £2000, maybe more for the 6 speed conversion.
 
DBull said:
Nah, the 6 speed conversion is not an option for me.

Way too expensive and custom parts galore!

I'll just keep whacking QG18 gear stacks into my casing, as it only costs me £150 for a gearbox.

You're looking at £2000, maybe more for the 6 speed conversion.
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Got a spare gearbox sitting here if you ever need it. lol - Hopefully never needed though.
 
Yeah, that's for the 6 speed conversion.

By the time you take in the gearbox itself, the custom shafts, the HLSD, the mounting kit, the flywheel and clutch, the bellhousing, the master & slave cylinders & lines, it gets very expensive!
 
Completed the battery swap and relocation to the passenger footwell bulkhead today...

RacingBattery.jpg


Just over 10 kgs saved in total and the weight transfered to a lower point and nearer the drivetrain, hopefully helping on the track.
 
OK, first thing was to find a decent place to put it and to be honest this was really the only suitable place as it was flat.

The battery came with a foam that wraps round the battery and holds it toght, preventing any kind of vibration.

Once this was fitted, trimmed and then the battery housed inside the clamp, it was simply a case of holding the battery / clamp in place and marking where I wanted to drill the holes.

I drilled the holes then bolted it down securely with some bolts and washers.

I then took some earth cable and new eyelets, measured how much cable I need and cut it to size, then fitted the eyelets.

I secured the earth point to an original threaded hole on the far side of the footwell and then attached it to the battery.

Then was the positive lead, which I simply trimmed back to the correct length (as the battery used to be in the boot) and fitted an new
eyelet, then secured to the battery.

JOB DONE!
 
are you running any kind of fuse on the positive cable? I would like to relocate mine to the boot...
 
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