Why's that bud?
'The Sleeper'
- Thread starter DBull
- Start date
Why's that bud?
I think it looks better in black 
Gives it that extra mean loook,
Gives it that extra mean loook,
cause he believes it increases heat soak...
OK, we are back in business boys!
This time, I took a gamble and decided to try out the gearstacks from a QG18DE gearbox from a Primera P11-144 1.8.
I picked up the gearbox for a small sum of £150 from the local Japanese breakers yard. The car had only 42000 miles (approx') on the clocks, so I was hoping that it would be in good condition.
After stripping the gearbox down, I found that there was minimal wear on the bearings, selectors, sychros and actual gears, so it appeared as though the gearbox had had a pretty stress free life. The way I see it was since the gearbox was coupled to a lower powered (and thus torque) engine, that the gears will not have been subjected to the same stresses.
So after stripping down the gearstacks, and getting the parts back after a few days after the treatment process (thank goodness for local businesses), I rebuilt them again to install them on the Saturday morning.
So, yesterday morning cam and the first thing that I noticed was obviously the bellhousings are different, but also the 1.8 gearbox is lacking the cooling fins as found on the 2.0 version.
Apart from these, there doesn't seem to be any other differences externally.
However, upon draining the oil I found that the oil had completely lost all thickness and the viscosity had gone to shit.
When I first filled the casing with the 'Redline Shockproof Heavy Duty' oil, I was barely able to get it in through the level plug as it was so thick. The oil must lose it's viscosity after taking a beating!
What I did find when we opened the casing was that the 1.8 has a taller 5th gear (0.733 as opposed to the 2.0's 0.756) and the final drive gear is mounted using 10mm bolts as opposed to the 2.0's 12mm bolts.
So after several hours of drilling (gears don't like to be drilled), I finally mounted the final drive gear to the NISMO LSD.
At first when I first rebuilt the gearbox, I couldn't get the selector to move, but I later found that this was due to the complete lack of oil.
So I stripped the gearbox back down and applied a little bit of oil to the gears and selectors and upon rebuilding it, selecting the gears was no longer an issue.
I also found that the bushes in the B&M shifter had collapsed, so I had to drill the selector linkage out to 14mm and use a mahoosive bolt (thank fuck for me working in an HGV workshop).
Then came the hardest part...
I had been advised to use 85w-140 by a fellow member (ashtonsser) on the SR20-forum. He had been having the exact same issue as I had, trying to push 460+ WHP through the same gearbox and breaking something pretty much everytime he used the car in anger.
I work on DAF trucks for a living and we use 85w-140 in the rear axles. Seeing how I could get it for only £1.50 a litre, it was a much cheaper alternative to the near £70 for the Redline oil.
What I did know was how thick this stuff is. I mean in winter time when it is really cold, you can take the draining plug out of the rear axle and the oil will not come out, it is really that thick.
So after 40 minutes, I finally manged to fill the gearbox with the oil. The only thing recommended was that I allowed the engine to come up to temperature before I even try to drive the car. That way the oil in the gearbox will be a bit thinner than from cold and the bearings especially will be better lubricated.
In addition, I also added the modifed clutch cable bracket (cheers Sam) to help prevent flex when applying the clutch.
So I let the engine come up to heat and then gave the car a short test run.
Immediately I noticed how much better the clutch felt and also how much different the gear selection felt. It was now easier to select (thank fuck for that big bolt) and I could actually feel the extra protection as provided by the heavier oil.
After a few runs with the boost at 1 BAR, I checked for any issues and all was well.
ROLL ON AUGUST 1ST & REMEMBER...NO TURNING THE BOOST UP TO 27 PSI!!!
This time, I took a gamble and decided to try out the gearstacks from a QG18DE gearbox from a Primera P11-144 1.8.
I picked up the gearbox for a small sum of £150 from the local Japanese breakers yard. The car had only 42000 miles (approx') on the clocks, so I was hoping that it would be in good condition.
After stripping the gearbox down, I found that there was minimal wear on the bearings, selectors, sychros and actual gears, so it appeared as though the gearbox had had a pretty stress free life. The way I see it was since the gearbox was coupled to a lower powered (and thus torque) engine, that the gears will not have been subjected to the same stresses.
So after stripping down the gearstacks, and getting the parts back after a few days after the treatment process (thank goodness for local businesses), I rebuilt them again to install them on the Saturday morning.
So, yesterday morning cam and the first thing that I noticed was obviously the bellhousings are different, but also the 1.8 gearbox is lacking the cooling fins as found on the 2.0 version.
Apart from these, there doesn't seem to be any other differences externally.
However, upon draining the oil I found that the oil had completely lost all thickness and the viscosity had gone to shit.
When I first filled the casing with the 'Redline Shockproof Heavy Duty' oil, I was barely able to get it in through the level plug as it was so thick. The oil must lose it's viscosity after taking a beating!
What I did find when we opened the casing was that the 1.8 has a taller 5th gear (0.733 as opposed to the 2.0's 0.756) and the final drive gear is mounted using 10mm bolts as opposed to the 2.0's 12mm bolts.
So after several hours of drilling (gears don't like to be drilled), I finally mounted the final drive gear to the NISMO LSD.
At first when I first rebuilt the gearbox, I couldn't get the selector to move, but I later found that this was due to the complete lack of oil.
So I stripped the gearbox back down and applied a little bit of oil to the gears and selectors and upon rebuilding it, selecting the gears was no longer an issue.
I also found that the bushes in the B&M shifter had collapsed, so I had to drill the selector linkage out to 14mm and use a mahoosive bolt (thank fuck for me working in an HGV workshop).
Then came the hardest part...
I had been advised to use 85w-140 by a fellow member (ashtonsser) on the SR20-forum. He had been having the exact same issue as I had, trying to push 460+ WHP through the same gearbox and breaking something pretty much everytime he used the car in anger.
I work on DAF trucks for a living and we use 85w-140 in the rear axles. Seeing how I could get it for only £1.50 a litre, it was a much cheaper alternative to the near £70 for the Redline oil.
What I did know was how thick this stuff is. I mean in winter time when it is really cold, you can take the draining plug out of the rear axle and the oil will not come out, it is really that thick.
So after 40 minutes, I finally manged to fill the gearbox with the oil. The only thing recommended was that I allowed the engine to come up to temperature before I even try to drive the car. That way the oil in the gearbox will be a bit thinner than from cold and the bearings especially will be better lubricated.
In addition, I also added the modifed clutch cable bracket (cheers Sam) to help prevent flex when applying the clutch.
So I let the engine come up to heat and then gave the car a short test run.
Immediately I noticed how much better the clutch felt and also how much different the gear selection felt. It was now easier to select (thank fuck for that big bolt) and I could actually feel the extra protection as provided by the heavier oil.
After a few runs with the boost at 1 BAR, I checked for any issues and all was well.
ROLL ON AUGUST 1ST & REMEMBER...NO TURNING THE BOOST UP TO 27 PSI!!!
Waheyyyyy
sounds good... get some times down... see if you can beet stu to the 12's
get it to santa pod or york some time,make it a good weekend
It's on the cards!
sweet would be a good race you and stu
so wen are you planning on coming down then dave
In all fairness Stu, Santa Pod is a long way down for us up north. Surely York would be a better compromise so the bulk of us can actually see this competition ? 