My QG18DE powered pulsar Q

Not much has been happening lately with the car.

Just have it a good detail last week. Ordered some hel brake lines last night.
Going to place an order for some Dba 4000 series t3 slotted rotor blanks today. My understanding is these are on back order with Dba and won't be ready until late December.

I'll also be fixing the sub/amp wiring and working out an easy way to secure it, so it'll be able to easily removed.

I've just signed up for my CAMS club membership and going to be ordering my cams l2s license next week.
 
spent all day yesterday finally cleaning out and re-organizing the garage so the car will fit in it. Lets just say I had a fair few car parts and crap in it. not just from my pulsar, but also from my cousins commodore.

Nothing fancy, but a picture of the car now in the garage:
IMG_04971.jpg
 
OK so it's finally hit summer over here and we are hitting 30+ degrees same days already. I took this as its time fix the a/c in the car. I was put on to an auto electrical wholesaler as no one wanted to touch my job of modifying the stock pipes to fit around the intercooler piping.

As a wholesaler they do the odd occasional hose repairs for some of their customers. But due to the limited space in my engine bay caused by the intercooler pipes, my job needed to be done on the car so to speak. He put me onto one of his customers who is local to me, that makes all his own hoses and does his own repair jobs.

I booked the car in yesterday for what was ment to be a fairly straight forward job. They fixed the hose that i needed modifying and went to regas it. Upon regassing the system, they noticed that one of the other hoses had been bent back onto the alternator belt.

Here's the result of the belt damage:
IMG_05211.jpg


As it was quite late in the afternoon when they went to regas it, they didnt have any more fittings left, or enough time to repair the second hose. I picked the car up, came home and removed the hose. In a way i'm glad this happened now, because this hose will have to be altered aswell, as it was starting to rub through because of the cooler piping.

The cars booked in again tomorrow to have this pipe fixed and the system regassed. The issue's i've had with this damned a/c system over the 8yrs of ownership is starting to persuade me to removing it completely.
 
had another night out at the drags.

ran a 14.144 @ 99.06mph. 2.256 60ft time.

pretty happy, but spewing I didnt crack that 13sec mark.
 
Yeah can't complain that's for sure.

I was putting down 14.2-14.3's consistently all night.

I managed a 14.4 on shitty nankang ns2's a few months back.

This time I used Dunlop sport maxx which are better, but they are pretty heavily worn. I'm hoping some fresh rubber is all it will take to crack that 13 sec mark.
 
Cheers guys.

After I fit the skyline brakes(waiting on rotors that are on back order) I'll be buying a set of 16x7's.

Done some research and I'll probably be buying a pair of 225/50-16 Hoosier drag radials.
 
It's been over a month since i've done an update here.

I received my dba t3 slotted rotors from the local brake shop last week. went about fitting up the gtr calipers, rotors and HEL braided lines. I stupidly just assumed the longer brake lines went on the front. When it came time to put the rears on, I realized what I had done. Swapped them around. by this time it was 11pm. bled the brakes the following morning. I'm rather happy with the extra stopping power.

next on the agenda is some better tyres. i think i'll be looking at the federal 595 RS-R in 225/40-18.

heres some pics of the brakes:

dba4926S rotors that have been redrilled to 4x114.3 and reduced to 288mm diameter:
IMG_05541_zps6c2e624a.jpg


pic taken while installing the brakes:
IMG_05551_zps540bc3a3.jpg


finished with wheel back on the car:
IMG_05561_zps91edd18d.jpg
 
Looks great mate, what hose did you use upfront, I have long hoses on mine (off a s14 Upfront if I rember correctly), & I have a feeling that is why I have ridiculous brake travel..? I am still to follow what Liam & Ed have said to take it for a good run using the brakes hard, my brakes need to be pumped continuously to build pressure & when the pressure is built up eventually it's lost again :( .
 
Thanks Bud, just got abit paranoid as extremes hose looks really short, compaired to mine which measrues (approx) 18 inches.
 
No way, if you knew the reason for braided hoses then you would never have thought that would have been the problem.
 
I have noticed that there's a bit more travel in the brake pedal, but I put this down to the bigger calipers and more pistons resulting in needing to move more fluid for the pads to bite the rotors.
 
Not much has happened lately with my N16(well in the case of further mods), but i've been dealing with a few annoying problems that have arisen.

Approximately 6-8months ago, the bearings in my alternator became rather noisy. At the time I didnt have the cash to throw a new one on it, so I opted for a used one from a car wreckers. Last month I ran into some issues, where the car was starting, idling fine and would rev fine in neutral or in gear whilst stationary. But when trying to take off, the car would rev, then virtually die(it would hold revs about 1100rpm while at WOT) so something wasn't right. I pulled my hair out for about 6 hrs, swapping various parts over to no avail. Did a bit of a search on B15U.com and my symptoms were pointing to the alternator. A simple test with a multimeter revealed it was overcharging.

Heres a pic with all 3 alternators:
IMG_05671_zps1fb163ed.jpg


While I was at it, I noticed a heap of black soot on the head, near the exhaust manifold. I figured I had a spare gasket laying around, so it would be pretty easy to swap it over. Rather simple fix, you'd think? I've since replaced the gasket, but now the car is struggling to hit boost. I have a funny feeling its leaking from between the compressor housing and CHRA as the comp housing seems to have rotated slightly. The cars now booked in to my mechanics on wednesday to have a book leak test performed by way of a smoke machine.(basically I wanted to confirm the problem before pulling the car apart to fix it).

After i'd booked the car in last week, I stupidly left the key in the car overnight, with the ignition turned on, which completely drained the battery. I tried using a battery pack and jumper leads to jump start the car, but to no avail. I've had the battery recharged and tested and the battery is ok.

Now I'm hoping that the boost leak issue is a simple fix. I'm hoping to be able to purchase some new 225/40-18 federal 595 rs-r's next week.

Some of the guys on the Pulsar Group of Australia facebook group have organised a drag night on the 6th march at the local drag strip, so i'm aiming to have the car at its best. I'm aiming to hit a 13sec pass, which should be doable.
 
If the compressor housing has moved, the preload on the actuator has changed and your wastegate is probably half open, result : struggling to boost.

I reckon i just saved you a mechanics bill.
 
RAJackson said:
If the compressor housing has moved, the preload on the actuator has changed and your wastegate is probably half open, result : struggling to boost.

I reckon i just saved you a mechanics bill.
Click to expand...

It could be that, but honestly, I'm kinda getting over working on it. I'm going to have a leak test done anyway and go from there.
 
Issue turned out to be a stuck wastegate. But while they were doing the smoke test, they also spotted a boost leak between the CHRA and the comp housing.

The turbo will stay as is for now, and come tax time, i'll look at investing in a new turbo. something slightly larger.
 
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