N16 SR16VE

I sold that box to Rhyd as his last box cracked the casing, I bought it from ebay as a reconditioned box and it just sat in my garage for over a year.....
 
that's true ed, it hurts me not going but i need the car finished ;):lol:

well i don't know what to say sam, but that is catastophic gear failure there, but if rhyd (old member?) can crack gearbox casings, and then only put half the bolts back in when swapping the gearbox it's not difficult to see where the initial blame lies in this gearbox's demise ;)
 
he had a mate who used to do his mechanic work for him, I know he had snapped bolts when fitting the gearbox, then he only put in 2 of the bolts on the rear triangular bracket when one snapped the whole engine dropped backwards thats what led to the casing cracking
 
ahh i thought you ment that hed had cracked the casing through abuse, my mistake :). but there were no snapped bolts when we took this box off nistros old car, only completely missing bolts, four of them to be exact, so if you still speak to this guy tell him to find another mechanic asap. well i'm off out to get lost in looms :/ wish me luck!
 
well updates have been kinda slow here so i'll let you know where i'm at, after demolishing and tracing back the wiring loom on the N16 (on bbq day too :( )

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i'd had enough of wiring for a while so i'd been avoiding starting the wiring on the VE loom and as well as working on some of nistros stuff i done some other things on the N16, like instead of using the N16 throttle cable which 'just' worked, i made up a hybrid of an N15 and N16 throttle cable that works perfectly and has the pedal stay in the right spot

n16 cable on the bottom with n16 bracket on the left, and the n15 cable with the n16 bracket plate
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close up of bracket plate of the hybrid cable using the cable from n15 and bracket from n16
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nistro also made up some radiator top brackets from some n15 ones which were modified to work with the n16, and i chucked on my only bit of pointless bling (well it's not fully pointless but you know what i mean :lol: )
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i also filled the gearbox and engine up with some oil, the engine oil will be changed after a few hundred miles to something better, i just want to run it on some semi synth 10w40 to see how healthy it is
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i also shortened the powersteering pipe and re did my coolant pipes that connect to the heater matrix by sleeving to the smaller n16 pipes about 4 inches before the matrix connections using some alu pipe as a sleeve, this is done by fitting the larger ve pipe over the n16 pipe with the 16mm alu pipe inside the n16 pipe (n16 heater pipes are 16mm inner diameter) and then clamping them all together with a jubily clip, i also used some 20mm alu pipe to and a couple of jubilee clips to split and join the powersteering pipes as they are 20mm inner diameter.

so today after all my dodging and procrastinating i started on the wiring

the connectors that interface the engine loom to the main car looms, these are what i need to mostly splice the ve loom into and it took a while to trace and label them all lol
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due to only having a few hours to work on it today as i was doing other stuff for friends and family all i got done was the alternator, the pnp switch and the reverse switch, but tomorrow should go much better and i'm hoping to have it running by thursday night!

so wish me luck guys :lol:
 
Nice nice work guys :thumb:

FYI I reckon you can use a DCi rad and keep the OEM brackets ;) Too late now I know :lol:
 
making good progress :)

good luck with the wiring.

Nice nice work guys :thumb:

FYI I reckon you can use a DCi rad and keep the OEM brackets ;) Too late now I know :lol:
I though that but I am not sure on the diameter of the hole on the DCi Rad. I had a look at Richards DCi and the pipe holes are in the same position as the SR20 but that does not mean it will fit as the pipe holes might be bigger in diameter. I know the P11-144 SR20DE one defiantly is a straight drop in as that is what im using at the moment.
 
Would just need the right hose then to fit both ends. iirc its 40mm dia. on the DCi's.

-mobile phone post-
 
thanks guys, though i'm wishing i hadn't procrastinated so long as i'm now on a mission to get it finished before i leave :/

and yeah thanks ed but it's kinda late with that info :lol:
 
Wow an epic read I just read all of your progress and I hope you get it all sorted soon and running before you travel. I guess this would be a wonderful conversion that many N16 owners would love to have I know I would...
Good luck and keep us updated with your progress ;)
 
Thanks guys it's much appreciated! :shades:

Paul the wiring can be quite simple if you have accurate diagrams to follow for engine and car, unfortunately I don't and trying to work it out is frying my grey matter :wall:

Maru your head must be as fried as mine after reading all my waffling in this thread lol, and yeah it should be a good basis for a nice project once it's done but getting it done is the task, lol

Well today I made good progress and managed to work out 90% of the wires on the ve loom, so before I carried on splicing I thought I'd double check the n16 connectors I'd labelled up by tracing back from the ecu, now I used the ecu pin out to label these wires but as they were all seperated from the ecu connector I had to work through each section to trace them and I'm totally pissed as only about 30% match up! The rest are wrong or not even wires in the pins indicated, seems like the esm I have doesn't cover my very late ph1 model, either that or the esm is as bad as the Haynes book of lies. So now I don't know if to trust what I traced from the ecu or if to start ripping out the internal loom and checking foe continuity from the items I need to where they go Inside the car :(

- I'M ON MY MOOOBBIILLEEEE!!!!!!!! -
 
Bloody hell sounds like a right head ache! Serious respect for sorting through it mate. At 90% you're well into the homestretch for getting this fired up :D
 
good news :)

tracing wires does take a lot of time as I found out. the P10 loom I used was a mission. im sure you can solve it. im glad you have a phase 1 and not a phase 2 with can-bus as the wiring loom changes all again.
 
thanks guys but i think you are reading my post wrong, or my writing is as fried as my head (probably the latter lol) as although i have 90% of the ve ecu wires that need connected up to the cars loom worked out on the ve side of the loom the wires that they need to connect to in the cars loom are completely foobarred, as the ecu pinout says one thing, but going through each items own wiring diagram (reverse switch, load adjust, speed sensor, water temp, oil pressure, start signal, charge warning light, powersteering pressure switch, lambda, fuel pump etc etc etc) says something completely different, and while i don't mind risking blowing N16 parts i cant risk the VE ecu :/

also darren could you pm me how you did the nats bypass again, i think i have it sussed out but i just want to be sure and i've deleted the pm you sent last time as i had to empty my inbox as it was full
 
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