N16 SR16VE

[shaggy_master]

Hope it works out like we discussed

 

[edk]

not to self: appreciate french cars as well as jap sometimes

*ahem*

:lol:

 

[Darren198712]

good luck . My SR20DE is going in next week end also have a look for a Primera P11 Gearbox mount

The almera gearbox mount was on front face where as the Primera's were mounted on the top

also I think the QG15DE gearselector rods might work as I posted in my QG15DE to QG18DE gearbox swap thread.

oh and it might not have NATS on the ECU but it might have NATS separate to the ECU like I had on the P10 ECU

 

[happyharrysco1]

get in. now comes the hard work

thanks mate, i'm hoping for an easy swap, once the mounting side is worked out the rest should be relatively straight forward, at least i hope so lol

Yum yum...

Good luck with it mush.

thanks mate, like i said before all donations welcome lol

It's because it didnt have VE in the thread title before, only N16, so you obviously didnt care to look :hammer:

tell me about it ed, nothing worse than series snobbery for the same car type :yes:

:whistling: i wish i could say you don't have a point

i only tend to click the special n16 threads, how bads that.

not to self: appreciate french cars as well as jap sometimes

come on mate the n16's are jap through and through, hey and at least i saved the engine from life in an n15! :lol:

 

[edk]

lol he's only trying to wind us up Phil

 

[craiGTi]

yeh i'm just teasing, i've actually grown quite fond of the look and potential of the n16. it's a lot more like the n14 than the fat arse ugly sister n15 :lol:

and a proper engine in this one too, bring it on.

 

[edk]

Funny that this should come up again today. I had someone looking round the car today (mate on TDOC) and the first thing he said was "it kinda looks like a modern Pulsar (he was referring to a GTiR). I then gave him the low-down on the name Pulsar and the N chassis family :lol:.

 

[happyharrysco1]

Hope it works out like we discussed

yeah if the n15 and p11 mounts give me what i need i'll be well happy mate, thanks again for sorting them for me :shades:

good luck . My SR20DE is going in next week end also have a look for a Primera P11 Gearbox mount

The almera gearbox mount was on front face where as the Primera's were mounted on the top

also I think the QG15DE gearselector rods might work as I posted in my QG15DE to QG18DE gearbox swap thread.

oh and it might not have NATS on the ECU but it might have NATS separate to the ECU like I had on the P10 ECU

good luck with it mate, i'll be looking to your install to see what mounting problems i'll face. i was thinking i'd need the qg18 selectors as they are working on your box, but iirc the gti box is the rs5f32a not the 70a so you may be right that the qg15 selectors will work as the gearbox is an rs5f30a so may be round the right way. i'll know more when i get to ripping out the qg. afaik mate the jdm never recieved any of the nats stuff at all, but i'm open to be corrected on this? anyone?

lol he's only trying to wind us up Phil

i know mate, but i'll let him away with it cause he's a good lad and he has a cracking car that he built himself :shades: (several times by all accounts :tt2: :lol: )

 

[Darren198712]

yeah if the n15 and p11 mounts give me what i need i'll be well happy mate, thanks again for sorting them for me :shades:



good luck with it mate, i'll be looking to your install to see what mounting problems i'll face. i was thinking i'd need the qg18 selectors as they are working on your box, but iirc the gti box is the rs5f32a not the 70a so you may be right that the qg15 selectors will work as the gearbox is an rs5f30a so may be round the right way. i'll know more when i get to ripping out the qg. afaik mate the jdm never recieved any of the nats stuff at all, but i'm open to be corrected on this? anyone?

if its NATS V1 its fairly easy to bypass as its only a few wires and relays. I took loads of pics of when I got my SR20DE started on the bench. wiring is the head ache as if 1 wire is not connected the engine won't start thats why I started the engine on the bench first. you will need to bypass the original immobilisers on the N16 as once you disconnect the original ECU the NATS won't work.

I think the P11 also think the P11 gearbox mount will work as ts mounted on the top and not on the front

http://www.almeraownersclub.com/threads/34183-QG15DE-to-QG18DE-Gearbox-(plus-SR20-box-info)

im just posting for refference
N15 GTi mount layout

I just noticed that the shifter rod stabiliser mounts on the bracket (right hand side of the shifter). on the N16 QG18DE and the P11-144 gearbox the shifter rod stabiliser mounts onto the gearbox (left hand side of the shifter). On the N16 QG15DE the stabiliser rod is mounted on the bracket very similar to the N15 (right hand side of the shifter). Maybe if you was swapping using a QG15DE I would use a N15 GTi box

edit (some more info)
The mounting points
RS5F30A is the N16 QG15DE Gearbox and the RS5F70A is the N16+P11-144 QG18DE gearbox and SR20DE gearbox

P11-144 SR20DE

 

[Darren198712]

http://www.almeraownersclub.com/threads/34183-QG15DE-to-QG18DE-Gearbox-(plus-SR20-box-info)

I think the drive shafts need to be cut and welded as on the LSD box one is shorter

I will compare my QG18DE box against the P11-144 box now as you said on Liams one of the drive shafts kept on popping out but as far as I know as im using the P11-144 gearbox I should not have a problem

I personally would start working on the engine loom outside of the car and getting it running on the bench first as it will be a nightmare once its in the car. I would also grab a N15 GTi interior loom so you can work out what wires go where. from what I found out there are a few sensors that run all the way around the car (from engine > passenger side head light > driver side head light > drive side bulk head > clocks > ECU
Lambda Sensor
Speed Sensor Signal
Oil Pressure sensor (switch for low pressure)
Water Temp Sensor

 

[happyharrysco1]

thanks for the info darren, i already have the vz-r lsd driveshafts, and i also have a gti o/s driveshaft, thankfully nissan in their wisdom decided to use the same outer cv spline count on the n15 and n16 so all i need is some outer cv's to go on the shafts i have and i should be golden :shades:

i looked into the gear selectors, and i did look at your thread i think the qg15de selectors will work out fine if they are long enough to reach the box and still work properly as everything looks to be the right way round.

n16 selectors (qg15de is rs5f30a)

n15 selectors (sr16 from vz-r and sr20 from n15 gti use rs5f32*)

the engine should start fine as i have the full loom including relays and what not, plus i'm using an n15 dash so hopefully i will have a relatively stress free conversion, and although there will be wiring differences with yours being a ph2 and mine a ph1 if i have any problems you'll be my first point of call

 

[Liam]

YES YES YES YES!!!! :taz:

Bout bloody time

If i were to do an N16 SR coversion again :whistling:, id be inclined to use a full N15 GTi wiring loom, engine bay, interior, lights ect ect

 

[Darren198712]

YES YES YES YES!!!! :taz:

Bout bloody time

If i were to do an N16 SR coversion again :whistling:, id be inclined to use a full N15 GTi wiring loom, engine bay, interior, lights ect ect

I Personally think it really depends on the car. with the phase 1's you got manual heaters and loads of other things that are manual. with the phase 2 N16 SE (my one) I got climate control, on board computer (MPG etc etc) I don't have a speed sensor to detect the speed I don't have a throttle cable etc etc.

also I think how much of the electrics you want working. I wanted everything how it use to be that is why I done it my way. im sure wiring the N15 GTi Loom in conjuction with the N16 loom would be more of a nightmare as you need to strip the as dash out and hide 2 fuse boxes etc etc

 

[StevenC]

All the very best of luck to you man, seriously. I do have a sneaky suspision that that gearbox + the handling capability of the N16 will make this thing an absolute fucking weapon and will surprise many many things for only having had a 100cc upgrade.

Re the exhaust, although it's "only" a 2", it is only a 1 box system and uses mandrel bends, so it will flow quite well. Thats 4 years that's been on that car now, hope it's till a good as when I got it.

 

[edk]

I love this project and support it whole heartedly but I can't help but remember Steve's VZR and its lack of torques, so not going to be the fastest thing out of the blocks. will need a bit of modding but that's further on down the line and don't let my comments here be a downer. For now its just awesome for an SR and a VE at that to be going in. But I do agree, it will still surprise, and I can't wait to heat VVL coming out of an N16!

-mobile phone post-

 

[happyharrysco1]

thanks steven, and ed no worries mate as i'm under no illusions that in 1.6L form i'm going to have a rocket, as the n16 has a 100kg's over the n15 so i wont even have vz-r like drag strip performance, though it will be a little bit of an improvement over the qg15 with almost double the 'book' bhp and some 30 ft/lb's of extra torque. but as i've said from the begining 'torque is cheap' in the sr16 so this year is just for the swap and fixing all of the eventual niggles that always arise in swaps of this type, and next winter is when she'll get craked open and stroked, and if money is tight possibly a slight hone/overbore to 86.5 or 87mm as i should get away with just using oversize rings for that, or if money is ok i'll go for an 88mm overbore to 2.1L along with a full strip and rebuild. but i'm getting way ahead of myself here, as i need to find a bloody barn/garage/unit to do the swap in first lol

 

[edk]

i wont even have vz-r like drag strip performance

Steve got 16.1 down the strip so I reckon the N16 could do 16.3. Now that's good for an N16 with no mods (to speak of, if you see what I mean ). 16.3 was also what I managed in the DCi before turbo and remap .

but as i've said from the begining 'torque is cheap' in the sr16 so this year is just for the swap and fixing all of the eventual niggles that always arise in swaps of this type, and next winter is when she'll get craked open and stroked, and if money is tight possibly a slight hone/overbore to 86.5 or 87mm as i should get away with just using oversize rings for that, or if money is ok i'll go for an 88mm overbore to 2.1L along with a full strip and rebuild. but i'm getting way ahead of myself here, as i need to find a bloody barn/garage/unit to do the swap in first lol

Yeah I thought you might, would need to get it in first then worry about modding after, understandable :thumb:

 

[steve55]

to be fair, i really dont think my car is running right anywho .... we shall see on the dyno day :wacko:

each engine is different, maybe yours is a bit more powerful, maybe its not

Steve

 

[StevenC]

TBH it's all quite unknown other than it'll be a million times better than the 1.5 that it will replace. That's why this deserves a lot of respect. It'll be very quick on track I should think.

 

[edk]

Oh yeah no doubt better than the 1.5 and no question of giving lots of respect to Phil for this