Raceworx P2 GTi

craiGTi said:
is that 130bhp or whp at 5500rpm?

shame about the cams man :( so when they switch they suck but at high rpms make power? is there a seriously dramatic jump in the graph then?

thats what i call service though, mapping for that long etc
Click to expand...

yeah its all in whp.. or hub HP to be sxact as its a dunopack hub dyno.. but he doesnt use any correction figures or smoothing on the graphs what you get it what you get.. which was fine by me

yeah theres a huge dip in the graph... coupled with zero noise increase with a cat less 3" exhaust!!.. which is why i thought to begin with the cams werent switching..
 
phew when you said 130bhp i was thinkin flywheel which would have been gash lol

hmm low lobes seem ok then 130whp on low lobes is ok i'd say. So it dips down to the 119, then when does it start to jump dramatically up again to the 178? cant feel that dull all the way to redline does it? either way i guess new, real n1s will sort it. Spose it was easier to copy a cam when they had a real one to go from but not without anything as reference
 
Is the dip not a case of needing optimising of the cam switch points to get the ideal crossover?

"run it on the low lobes, then run it on the high lobes... then you find your optimum cam switch point"
 
Dale said:
Is the dip not a case of needing optimising of the cam switch points to get the ideal crossover?

"run it on the low lobes, then run it on the high lobes... then you find your optimum cam switch point"
Click to expand...

hmm too big a dip id say

The flat feeling and lack of cam switch noise is odd - mines fuckin mental when they switch you should defi be hearing something and 20bhp is a big old dip. Even when mine were switchin at 4800 to avoid all the det the dip was only about 5hp
 
its wierd to describe it just feels dull maybe i was expecting to much.. maybe it needs the cam gears messing with, as for the cams there switching quite late anyway 5600rpm.. and the low cam power is starting to tail off.. mabe the fact there not degreed correctly is pushing the power on the high cams way to far up.. its 175whp lol i mis heard him sorry tourqe is a nice flat line but with a nice big dip at switchover..
 
hmmm, low cams tailing off there seems a tad low but it depends what you mean by tailing off, we need graphs! But i don't think 5600 is getting late for the spec.

You musta been expecting serious turbo powahz if you feel let down and nothings wrong, pretty sure if it felt right:single fuck: you'd be happy lol

then again 175whp is good. Something must be wrong for the dip like that, but then again if they were way out you wouldn't think they'd make 175

*confused*
 
Vasillis from greece made 216.9 fly bhp on the first basic tune on his car he had both cams switching at 5800 very simular setup although you should have more running slightly less compression for the bad fuel on your build

http://s189.photobucket.com/albums/z174/N1inSight/N1/?action=view&current=IMG_6383Custom.jpg
http://s189.photobucket.com/albums/z174/N1inSight/N1/?action=view&current=IMG_6384Custom.jpg
Run2 (pink) stock cam gears 0,0 (100ron fuel)
Run1 (red) CS cam gears at +4,-7 (95ron + dyno-tab booster)


Cam gear position didn't make much impact at all.... I'd be aiming for those type of figures if your near enough what another is getting ya can't be too far wrong.

Doesn't seem to have any dips in the graph like you were explaning either?
 
cams are at +5 -5 to increase overlap to help with det which it did.. we got a tiny amount of det at 4800RPM so afew degrees off the ign sorted that.

fuel is teco 99ron

ill try and get the results up straight after work.. including the AFR's...
 
I'd personally slam the cams back to 0,0 and work up slowly from there with Verneir cam gears.
Once you get that gay speed limiter off and some real N1's dude - you'll be laughing, good figures for only 7500rpm IMO...
Joe
 
well been thinking about his all night and morning.. i think the best thing i could do is look at getting some propper n1's then plum back in my DE ecu with a switching device.. and go nistune.. then take it back up to andy with my laptop and remap it..

but im going to run it for a month just check oil levels ect before we go at it again..
 
Raceworx said:
well been thinking about his all night and morning.. i think the best thing i could do is look at getting some propper n1's then plum back in my DE ecu with a switching device.. and go nistune.. then take it back up to andy with my laptop and remap it..

but im going to run it for a month just check oil levels ect before we go at it again..
Click to expand...

Sounds like a good plan man, Speed Limiter problem solved with no extra electricals and no bodging etc.
There's also been a few sets of N1's on 20forum recently dude so Xmas money is already allocated I bet ;)
Ironing out any issues and that over the next month is a safe plan too.
You know your shit man keep batting and you'll get there!
Glad its running sound etc though.
Joe
 
im gona chill for a month and gather stock have alook around and see if theres somthing im missing.. main thing is the engine is in and running which i guess is the main thing.. i can work on the power once i know shes run in and holding strong..

theres afew bolts coming loose with the solid front engine mount causing vibrations.. the throttle cable came of on the M62 during a full throttle run..lol

also thers only 2 bolts holding the blox inlet to the MAF as 2 vibrated loose and decided they liked the M1 more than my car..

if you were willing to let me test them first craig id consider your N1's it would be intresting to see them next to the ones i have..
 
Raceworx said:
if you were willing to let me test them first craig id consider your N1's it would be intresting to see them next to the ones i have..
Click to expand...

yeh should be cool. obviously my exhaust cam is a nissan one, and the intake copied exactly so should be perfect. my curve seems kosher so...

only thing is if i was gonna sell it'd need to be sooner rather than later or i'll end up not being able to sell i think lol. do you a good price though - and you have those 20ves i could come n swap over to use while you test
 
well like i said im skint till after xmas til febuary.. so ill not waste your time talking cash untill then..

right heres the graphs links for big :-

power and tourqe

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v355/Drifterx_uk/Silver GTi/Photo771.jpg?t=1292435180

Photo771.jpg



AFR

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v355/Drifterx_uk/Silver GTi/Photo773.jpg?t=1292435271

Photo773.jpg


its mega lean below 3K but we couldnt change that with the limited scope of the unichip..


but that doesnt concern me as she pulls strong in the low RPM anyway hte top end you can see its abit rich as between 12-13:1 but not enough to warrent a 20HP loss..
 
hmmm, its odd that in the end it makes decent power but on the way up there its fairly inconsistent

those afrs are random too, you seen that thread on the dash about ve's liking lean? i bet that rich section is no coincidence - but like you say maybe not enough for 20hp

very strange, you'd think if the cams were way off it wouldn't hit 175. is the dastek a fairly limited way of doin stuff then? when you mention the low rpm leanness?
 
yeah it can only modify the signals so much.. its fine for small corrections.. you could use it with a turbo for example but its not quite fine enough for N/A stuff it seems

i duno if it was a fuel thing it wouldnt make any power as the fueling is righ for the top cams anyway and wouldnt make 175..

its rough because he doesnt use any smoothing or corrections..
 
i wouldnt drive it to much with it running like that imo, id rather get the mapping done perfect from the beginging, so it runs the engine in better.

them afr's are way off, in what way did the dastek not control them.

you got the unichip or unichip Q?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom