Ross Autech

Let's not rattle the cage guys. I think Ross has got more pressing issues to deal with first before he tackles the spoiler because it's not going to provide any down force at all if the cars not moving.
 
i have a habit of analysing problems i cant solve. so here is where i am at.

i bought the car and on the way back from turriff the car was misfiring under load. it went away so i assumed it was cause it had been sat for a while.

car gets rear ended. and sits in snow in down to -14 on a few occasions, everything frozen, engine covered in ice and interior frozen too.

car starts friday but again, missfiring under load.

later friday it doesnt start.

i tried to remove the dizzy cap and the screws are rusted in place, indicating it has never been off, and never replaced. or not in a long time.

so all this points me to believe the issue lies with the dizzy / cap / rotor arm and the missfiring was a warning of it.

now the autech dizzy is unique to the autech SR20 and the N15 SR18 as sam reckons its the first SR20 with the coil in the dizzy.

BUT. it looks like the dizzy off a B14 SR20 is the same.

now a little further digging on this gets me a part number to compare to the autech one. but. there is also an alternative part number for the B14 which also fits. common part with the almera GTi SR20.

so in theory all i need to do is depin the two autech plugs and rewire to a single GTi plug and use the GTi dizzy. that will either start up. or eliminate the dizzy as the problem.

now to finish my soup and go find the spare dizzy we have...
 
as its been backfiring check the backbox for blockages as mine failed to run when the insides collapsed. Also so is there spark at each lead and plug? Each cylinder is now dry. Is there any restrictions in the air inlet.
 
CoV said:
as its been backfiring check the backbox for blockages as mine failed to run when the insides collapsed. Also so is there spark at each lead and plug? Each cylinder is now dry. Is there any restrictions in the air inlet.
Click to expand...

spark at each plug is affirmitive.
each cylinder is dry. i know this cause im missing a lot of arm hair when they detonated.
ill check the backbox, it is a theory that the missfiring causing fuel to explode in the exhaust could have loosened something off.

ive just grabbed a GTi dizzy from the unit and the plugs appear to be the same...
 
CoV said:
as its been backfiring check the backbox for blockages as mine failed to run when the insides collapsed. Also so is there spark at each lead and plug? Each cylinder is now dry. Is there any restrictions in the air inlet.
Click to expand...

Each plug/leads sparks yes, the air box has been removed and replaced with a cone filter, doesn't seem to be any blockages.
 
i don't mean to put a dampener on proceedings but spark at each plug means dizzy/coil is working? although it may not be working to optimum conditions and giving a weak spark.

when you re-built the starter from the other car, was it spinning the right direction when powered? did it mount on the same side of the engine as the autech?
 
happyharrysco1 said:
i don't mean to put a dampener on proceedings but spark at each plug means dizzy/coil is working? although it may not be working to optimum conditions and giving a weak spark.

when you re-built the starter from the other car, was it spinning the right direction when powered? did it mount on the same side of the engine as the autech?
Click to expand...

no it doesnt mean the dizzy / coil is working correctly.

we checked each lead individually for spark. so what if moisture inside the cap is shorting out and firing 2 or 3 or 4 cylinders at the same WRONG time? we wouldnt know about that as we were only testing one at a time.

the starter is fine. the engine wasnt starting before the starter packed in.
 
Nah, you could still get a spark just possibly too weak. Would lead to hefty mis-firing, exactly as decribed.

Glad you've got this sorted.

p.s. i want a shot :D
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom