Ross Autech

made 165hp NA, a 4hp gain over stock. but its faster on the road where the cams are actually fed more air.

fuelling was fine.

made 200hp on a 50 shot of nitrous, lower torque this time BUT the bottle pressure was low as we had refilling problems.

it did not like or take a 100 shot...
 
Amateurs don't use nitrous oxide...I've seen the way you drive..you've got a heavy right foot!
:-)
 
Doesn't matter if you win by an inch or a mile, winnings winning.

Ah what a good night that was Sam. MB6 ftw.
 
StevenC said:
Granted I'm a bit of a NOS noob and I'm only hanging on to my Physics / Chemistry "logic" from school but by the time it leaves the pressure of the bottle it'll rapidly boil anyway so it (a few degreees of ambiant temperature) won't make a blind bit of difference...if it's going into the intake (like yours) rather than the chamber directly (on a dry system)?
Click to expand...

OK. proof of concept here.

got my nitrous pressure gauge today so decided i would do a little experiment to show HOW MUCH change a small adjustment in ambient temperature will cause.

1be91a5d.jpg


bottle removed out the car today. its pretty cold, so as such the bottle was pretty cold. fitted the gauge (with aid of thread tape after it leaked and got me high as fuck the first time) and it registered about 675psi on the gauge, which is LOW and explains why my shots always run RICH. lower nitrous pressure means lower nitrous volume into the intake, whereas the fuel remains constant, hence, OVERFUELS. this is obviously where a bottle heter and pressure switch come in, allows you to maintain a constant 1000psi in the bottle without going to low and sacrificing power, or two high and dumping the contents into the atmosphere when the blow off valve opens.

i put the bottle in a warm environment for FIVE MINUTES before i went out earlier, when i removed it and checked the reading:

21ded376.jpg


it was up to 725psi. so just 5 minutes in a WARM environment raised the bottle pressure by 50psi.

high pressure in a nitrous bottle is needed because nitrous oxide turns into a liquid at 900 - 1100psi. and liquid N2O is what you want to be injecting into your engine, as it is as dense as wolverine, and nitrous density has the same effect as air density for an engine.

anyway. end of the boring shit

im booked in for mapping on the 2nd of july. BRING IT ON.

better go empty my bank and pay the man now eh...
 
Hally said:
So you sticking with NOS now then but getting it mapped properly?
Click to expand...

yesh

getting the NA map tightened up. that way the nitrous has a better chance of running right. cause looking at my last dyno run, the gas only missfired when it hit 6500, which is where the AFR richened right up.

so with a good NA map, the nitrous will work BEAUTIFULLY.

i was spurred on by the fact i cam 14th overall in FWD at banzai. with a good setup, id have been well into the top 10.

its also good to know that with low bottle pressure on the dyno, the 50 shot made MORE power, but less torque. so with a fully charged bottle and a good map i will be well into the 200hp bracket with nitrous.
 
Yeah man, should a be beast when it's mapped :)

So is Steve coming up there and mapping it for you?

Can't wait to see it running properly.
 
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