Sams VZ-R N1

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Sam, you do know the 300zx master cylinder is 15/16" too? So I can't see the pedal travel being any worse between using 4pots on that and using them on an Almera.
 
I see. Just thought that if 15/16 was fine to use on the 300, it should be fine to use on the N1x.

But I forgot you're a perfectionist! :D
 
these are the MC's i've found and considered using but i need ot find out how long they are so they dont foul on the back of the engine. all of these MC's will fit a 300zx and if that one fits an n15 then here we have a list to work form :)

  • 46010-30P01 Manufacture date 2/89 – 7/90 (17/16″ NA Tokico)
  • 46010-30P02 Manufacture date 7/89 – 7/90 (17/16″ TT Tokico)
  • 46010-30P02 Manufacture date 7/90 – 2/91 (17/16″ NA & TT Tokico)
  • 46010-30P10 Manufacture date 2/89 – 7/90 (15/16″ NA Nabco non-ABS)
  • 46010-30P21 Manufacture date 2/89 – 7/90 (17/16″ NA Nabco)
  • 46010-30P22 Manufacture date 7/89 – 7/90 (17/16″ TT Nabco)
  • 46010-30P22 Manufacture date 7/90 – 2/91 (17/16″ NA & TT Nabco)
  • 46010-45P00 Manufacture date 9/91 – 9/93 (1″ NA TT Tokico)
  • 46010-45P00 Manufacture date 2/91 – 9/91 (1″ NA & TT Tokico)
  • 46010-45P20 Manufacture date 9/91 – 9/93 (1″ NA & TT Nabco)
  • 46010-45P20 Manufacture date 9/93 – Up (1″ NA & TT Nabco)
 
Custom, its a piece of art I feel bad using it on the car, so well made this will be going on with the custom manifold.
 
Im curious to see how low the whiteline one is.

I've had both (still have my broken cusco one...), and the Whiteline one has LOTS more ground clearance, sits up real close to the crossmember (my cusco was 2 fingers off the crossmember) and the rearward mounting of the whiteline brace is also a lot better and lower profile than the Cusco brace giving more 'departure' ground clearance when going over a speed bump.
 
After an incident resulting in the previous shifter getting lost somewhere I purchased another and have had it all modified again, collected it yesterday with a new PTFE bush in the bottom mimicking the offset that the standard shifter has.

The modifications that have been done on it are;

Pivot ball machined down and shaped to match the stock shape/size allowing me to keep the plastic cup bit, a bend put in to mirror the stock shifter then the bush at the bottom that is allowing me to keep the stock shoulder bolt.

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Not far off getting the car back down on its wheels now after far too long sat on stands
 
Got the steering rack gaiters changed,

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That was the last thing I needed to do on the car, and now I have these I can trial fit them.

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Just need a dry evening
 
Subframe is back in!!!

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Proper fucking snug, had to use the nuts to pull it up onto the car, the collars have moved it forward a considerable amount, looking at the marks from where it was before :)

Couldnt get all the collars in though only the top ones, the holes on the subframe itself are not perfectly in line with each other.

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All stripped down, cleaned, greased, correctly preloaded, tightened and assembled :)

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Have just refitted all the shift linkage as well with the new modified shifter :)

Coilovers in
New copper Brake lines installed
Drive shafts back in
Manifold/downpipe fitted

and its back on its wheels :)
 
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